The DIY thread - DIYourself

I'm selling my beach house and we're not using it as intended and short term rentals is a bit of a pita. Just has the town CO inspection and they pointed out 3 vinyl replacement windows wouldn't stay open. Is the repair something I can easily find at HD or needs to be ordered? It's some plastic connectors to the weights. Any options to rig it to pass inspection. The windows are old and need to be replaced and their seals are all shot as seen in the hazing. The buyer didn't bring it up as it's obvious they are in bad shape. Unfortunately I need this fixed for a re-inspection next week.

this is a "depends" -
some have torsion springs - they break
some have a screw to tighten/loosen along the rail - interference fit

If they are tilt in/out, there may be a cord to a pulley which needs to be replaced in the track.

I don't know any vinyl that uses the old counterweight style.
Sometimes the manufacturer is written in on the bottom edge of the window sash - might give you a lead.
 
this is a "depends" -
some have torsion springs - they break
some have a screw to tighten/loosen along the rail - interference fit

If they are tilt in/out, there may be a cord to a pulley which needs to be replaced in the track.

I don't know any vinyl that uses the old counterweight style.
Sometimes the manufacturer is written in on the bottom edge of the window sash - might give you a lead.
I went down this road before and it wasn't very easy. As standard as windows are, the parts for them can be a big PITA to find. That being said, , I did my search before everything this is on the internet somewhere so it may be easier now.
 
PSA: If you havent already, be sure to turn off the hose bibs today and drain the water. First temps below freezing coming tonight- at least here up north it will be like 27F overnight. This way you can prevent the emergency DIY of busted/frozen pipes.
 
Anyone ever replace a heating water circulating pump like this?

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I think that I've narrowed the prob dow to this since it's getting 120V and not running. Just want to see if I'm getting in over my head or if I can reasonably do it.
 
Anyone ever replace a heating water circulating pump like this?

View attachment 272024

I think that I've narrowed the prob dow to this since it's getting 120V and not running. Just want to see if I'm getting in over my head or if I can reasonably do it.

easy peasy - it will come with the O rings.
hopefully you have valves before and after - makes the bleed when you are done easier.

did you hit it with a hammer?
Are there zone valves?
they should last 40 years.
 
easy peasy - it will come with the O rings.
hopefully you have valves before and after - makes the bleed when you are done easier.

did you hit it with a hammer?
Are there zone valves?
they should last 40 years.
Hit with hammer, check. No zone valves. Looks like a valve before but not after. I think 40 years might be generous. 😁

PXL_20251117_172657462.jpg
 
I think I'll go for a ride and meditate on it. 😀 Probably tackle it tomorrow.
We had a recirculating system but the previous owners tapped it off to save energy. Doesn't recirculating hot water cost more to operate? If not, I understanding why
 
We had a recirculating system but the previous owners tapped it off to save energy. Doesn't recirculating hot water cost more to operate? If not, I understanding why

It does. It is like having a bigger tank.
Typically you'd have a timer that gets it going just before shower time then shuts down.

It does save water if that is a greater concern
 
We had a recirculating system but the previous owners tapped it off to save energy. Doesn't recirculating hot water cost more to operate? If not, I understanding why
This is for my home heating boiler loop, not my hot water heater. I have three zones, each one has it's own circulator pump, and this one is DOA. It's kind of strange that like Pat asked, there are no zone valves, only the pumps. Maybe they figure that not much flows anyway when the pump is off?
 
Maybe they figure that not much flows anyway when the pump is off?

Nothing gets by - they circulate a zone rather than pressurizing like a pump.

Was wondering about the zone valve as they energize the circulator when they open. They are more likely to fail than the circulator.
Two+ zone valves on 1 circulator can be wired for priority, or just partition.

Only thing to worry about is getting the direction correct!!
 
We had a recirculating system but the previous owners tapped it off to save energy. Doesn't recirculating hot water cost more to operate? If not, I understanding why
Not sure what you mean. You kind of need a pump to move water through your system for baseboard/heated floors. Pump turns on when there is a call for heat, or pump plus zone valve depending on if there are multiple zone or multiple pumps. Not sure how you can cap it off unless you have a tankless with a built in pump.

Hot water for all your other stuff just comes from water pressure.
 
I
Not sure what you mean. You kind of need a pump to move water through your system for baseboard/heated floors. Pump turns on when there is a call for heat, or pump plus zone valve depending on if there are multiple zone or multiple pumps. Not sure how you can cap it off unless you have a tankless with a built in pump.

Hot water for all your other stuff just comes from water pressure.

He means they removed the hot water circulator.
When you are in a hotel, no matter what room you are in, the hot water is near instant. That is a circulating loop of hot water. When a valve is opened, that is when supply pressure comes into play.

They are circulators, not pumps.
 
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