'16 Scalpel med swingarm

JDurk

Well-Known Member
Throwing this out there, as I know many people on here have owned this bike. Potentially cracked the swingarm, but also discovered a lower pivot bolt head broke off.

Anyone have a spare swingarm before I go down the warranty route? Getting the bolt out is another issue.

Thanks,
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If you are the original owner and have a proof of purchase, they will (most likely) offer you a new frame, but that fork will not fit..
 
If you are the original owner and have a proof of purchase, they will (most likely) offer you a new frame, but that fork will not fit..
Thanks @jdog. Yes, original owner and aware of the many differences between this model and the newer model, which is the reason I was looking for a new swingarm now. Working with Caffeinated Cyclist on the warranty end.
 
My Trigger 29er broke in the exact same spot. Recieved a warranty frame thanks to @jdog but similarly my old parts won’t fit. Have sold my 1.5” fork, DYAD shock and the warranty frame. Will donate what’s left of the original frame if anyone needs a spare XL main triangle and seat stay.
 
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9 years out of this frame is pretty remarkable. Get the warranty, sell it, try something new with better geometry.
Definitely thinking that way. Bike sat for a few years when I got my Pivot T429. Then I got the brilliant idea to run it SS last May. Planning to use a FS SS for TSE in May. No way I'm using the rigid for 5 days of #eastcoastrocks.

New Scalpel has better geo. I've thought about SSing the T429.
 
Man everyone dogging the roadie XC bike geo era, but on the right terrain that still rips.
 
If you are the original owner and have a proof of purchase, they will (most likely) offer you a new frame, but that fork will not fit..
Bumping this again as I'm still in search of a swing arm.

Updating. Can't determine if it's just chipped clear coat, stress cracks or fully cracked. Quarter tap test sounds good. Still need to get the bolt out.
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Talking to a machinist here at work about screw extraction. Going to contact Swamp Ghost carbon about diagnosis and carbon repair, but looks like $375 minimum for a repair.

Other option is warranty frame from Cannondale. However, as @jdog mentioned, Lefty 2.0 won't work with new frame. Neither will the rear shock. Hollowgram SLs are BB30, old frame is PF30. Looks like the new Scalpel is 73mm BSA. Current frame is 12x142 rear, non-AI. New frame is 12x148, so possible to use rear hub with adapters. Looks like a minimum of upgrading fork, shock, cranks and possibly rear wheel.

Other option is purchase a discounted complete bike and stripping all the parts off to make it SS. Sell all the old parts and new parts.

Would be kinda interesting to run a new Scalpel with an Ocho as a SS. Thinking about @jShort 's comment too.
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I wouldn't try to talk you into swapping everything over as it's probably smarter to buy a totally different used frame to swap the parts onto and sell a brand new replacement frame. I can't see how it's cost effective.

But why won't the Lefty 2.0 work on a new frame? Doesn't anyone make the adapters? I think Project 321 stopped but Leonardi still makes them? Either way, that's still a bunch more $$ to throw at this.

Also, you can get 30mm bearings for BSA, I just don't know if they work with Cannondale cranks.

Singlespeed solves none of these issues. Rear cassette/derailleur/shifter is probably the one set of components that swaps over with no issue... But I still support Singlespeed being the answer.
 
I wouldn't try to talk you into swapping everything over as it's probably smarter to buy a totally different used frame to swap the parts onto and sell a brand new replacement frame. I can't see how it's cost effective.

But why won't the Lefty 2.0 work on a new frame? Doesn't anyone make the adapters? I think Project 321 stopped but Leonardi still makes them? Either way, that's still a bunch more $$ to throw at this.

Also, you can get 30mm bearings for BSA, I just don't know if they work with Cannondale cranks.

Singlespeed solves none of these issues. Rear cassette/derailleur/shifter is probably the one set of components that swaps over with no issue... But I still support Singlespeed being the answer.
Going by what @jdog mentioned and also my LBS, the Lefty 2.0 won't work on a new Scalpel frame. Maybe he can explain why, but I think it has to do with the internal cable routing through the head tube and stem.
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Need to investigate the Hollowgram SL cranks in a BSA. Don't see them offered on any '25 Scalpel models in the on-line catalog.

Been full time SSing since May. It's been pretty awesome riding the Scalpel SS with full lockout and a dropper. And I like my IndyFab as a rigid SS. Have an external dropper to go on it. Putting the Lefty 2.0 on that is an option. Registered for TSE in the SS class.
 
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Bumping this again as I'm still in search of a swing arm.

Updating. Can't determine if it's just chipped clear coat, stress cracks or fully cracked. Quarter tap test sounds good. Still need to get the bolt out.
View attachment 254756View attachment 254757View attachment 254758

Talking to a machinist here at work about screw extraction. Going to contact Swamp Ghost carbon about diagnosis and carbon repair, but looks like $375 minimum for a repair.

Other option is warranty frame from Cannondale. However, as @jdog mentioned, Lefty 2.0 won't work with new frame. Neither will the rear shock. Hollowgram SLs are BB30, old frame is PF30. Looks like the new Scalpel is 73mm BSA. Current frame is 12x142 rear, non-AI. New frame is 12x148, so possible to use rear hub with adapters. Looks like a minimum of upgrading fork, shock, cranks and possibly rear wheel.

Other option is purchase a discounted complete bike and stripping all the parts off to make it SS. Sell all the old parts and new parts.

Would be kinda interesting to run a new Scalpel with an Ocho as a SS. Thinking about @jShort 's comment too.
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View attachment 254761
Machinist came through. Got the broken bolt out of the 1 side. Made a drill bushing and carefully drilled what was left of the M5x20 in the hole of the non-drive side. Chased it with an M5 tap. Figured he would chase the drive side and the tap didn't go too far. That bolt was broken off inside as well. Both bolts extracted and chased with a tap, plus the drill bushing for $60.
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