What have you done to your bike today?

Bikeworks

Well-Known Member
The rear wheel for the Epic Evo had enough bad nipples and spokes not holding tension that I decided to re-lace the whole wheel, this time with 1.8mm spokes over the 1.6mm spokes on there now. I figured that as a clyde the additional rigidity overrides the small weight increase. I got the wheel as laterally true as possible, then checked the dish, then went about finishing it all off. Through on a new Schwalbe Wicked Will, now I just need time to ride.
 

djm

Well-Known Member
First ride on the new build, pieced together with 2nd hand/on-sale parts. Doubt I'll ever bikepack tho.

gIAb-pMBmOZ1Ww8G-sx8xsgR1EmB4isKUXW_tufSQz5HvYV1aAXDz3E14BJVh0MwG9_7tuyMJwK43PtYEC_zNKrlnYqGgqAfRuHZBOHfLFLlNRSaBw1bQ5NSB1bWO42w2j5Rcdms7P2acQseBrG-U-xDjuceUfXXniaLBXZFtcYwzhtNX_VnfJeuIjpUeX8DzgoVW5DcQXtCyvQR_k1d2yZlfZYmxl4Re9A2kaHgQY2OK16tBAg_OFXelNoT3sf1EljHRJ5u-GXMGJMBWIHi43tpIR7qPMCnG2Kfq2xZqA_ZQAyfZSD84sdxJLHi0gn7qxT_8o6G2OaQ3WtY3DNDlLVtGgkPGf883p0oGvBe_YVZ8oP1xVQAj9wRZVZNmL4s91G7qHnuCATwgE4_BG3fAFkDw1r_ZFYixzX5k1bW0qikOH04HUEBXVPEubsy2fKfs0lJnsoCr_BDlmEtrGMuEp8x4X8j7yltlUKSyUJbaVMxdb4rYM3Hph4FbgS3gikOlP4ah0QjEcz0KsezSFpAVjIePkyspXoYUhhDh-X74HFmT-ykBVPW6SfsZgRTqW-sx2g3r56xCb_lP97FMKcxD2nvOWTdL4zn2sGqqrsPHlLfyn5dXdqd-QvlYiKGSpP_f0-B489rPdr3H_LgzKtnSr5td2BvdkiLFeDaHGqqJ0sqjuoQp2i0eD7S9ufBqA54GXiC2ocpEjonU8ocQUASuGRJ8nfxyIBDOujs_NS0Qmk5q_I4Z87EzLZpyYesAXOGkkw-tpgnFFM1qekwU75er99vtoyec2IF-Sqxn6g9C1b8l_IJsZTbdBpivXhW4JpCqIFKRpqMtPS0YSH9dyNxiPBbLmZDXz7ea1XLQHxtoM1OoHtL-zFdrCQoAZJ_iA4xZm1tR8DBxLagyfApmBkH6_R1qbrf84L1N_LcYeggUfvuKOsuhA=w1628-h916-s-no
 

robcleary

Well-Known Member
Discovered my 6 month old steel gravel bike has a little internal rust already 😮‍💨 (any advice, please lmk. I'm thinking a long steel brush and some internal frame seal?)

On the good news side, I got my fork back from Gearwork, and my shock hardware arrived to put on the Topaz. Got everything bolted up, just need to get a ride in and dial them back in.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230602_180642030.jpg
    PXL_20230602_180642030.jpg
    90 KB · Views: 76
  • PXL_20230602_222738620.jpg
    PXL_20230602_222738620.jpg
    162.8 KB · Views: 78
  • PXL_20230602_222745650.jpg
    PXL_20230602_222745650.jpg
    127.4 KB · Views: 75

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Discovered my 6 month old steel gravel bike has a little internal rust already 😮‍💨 (any advice, please lmk. I'm thinking a long steel brush and some internal frame seal?)

On the good news side, I got my fork back from Gearwork, and my shock hardware arrived to put on the Topaz. Got everything bolted up, just need to get a ride in and dial them back in.

Grab a can of fogging spray (nb: there have been tests done of "bike specific" stuff and found them lacking), and spray it into all the accessible holes, including fork vents, if steel: pull the bottom bracket/fork to do so. Over the course of a couple of days, rotate the frame to get complete coverage--and keep it over a piece of cardboard, because it will weep thick, tacky oil.

To do an A+ job, strip the frame entirely, and treat it with an oxalic acid bath (check Bikeforums vintage section for tips), then do the above procedure.

The rust won't "get worse" if you simply fog the frame, since oxygen will not be able to reach the steel to continue oxidizing.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
Grab a can of fogging spray (nb: there have been tests done of "bike specific" stuff and found them lacking), and spray it into all the accessible holes, including fork vents, if steel: pull the bottom bracket/fork to do so. Over the course of a couple of days, rotate the frame to get complete coverage--and keep it over a piece of cardboard, because it will weep thick, tacky oil.

To do an A+ job, strip the frame entirely, and treat it with an oxalic acid bath (check Bikeforums vintage section for tips), then do the above procedure.

The rust won't "get worse" if you simply fog the frame, since oxygen will not be able to reach the steel to continue oxidizing.
I have done the oxalic acid for a few bikes, the last was an 80s Bob Jackson due to some rust in the stays which is often terminal for steel. It works, I think you can still get it at the big box home improvement stores. @Karate Monkey what's fogging spray? Years ago I used linseed ago but was messy, a can of JP Weigle Framesaver usually covers 2-3 frames and much easier to apply. It's in my Niner ROS9, and no signs of rust so far but may be time to do another application at tend of season.
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
I have done the oxalic acid for a few bikes, the last was an 80s Bob Jackson due to some rust in the stays which is often terminal for steel. It works, I think you can still get it at the big box home improvement stores. @Karate Monkey what's fogging spray? Years ago I used linseed ago but was messy, a can of JP Weigle Framesaver usually covers 2-3 frames and much easier to apply. It's in my Niner ROS9, and no signs of rust so far but may be time to do another application at tend of season.


Or Fluid Film. One of Walt's customers did an informal shootout of stuff explicitly meant to protect bare metal. https://www.mtbr.com/threads/anti-corrosion-product-shootout.1073581/ . Fluid Film won, hands down...

But my personal experience has been that, unless you have a priceless frame, don't bother. Chromoly is already so corrosion resistant that short of intentionally riding it through crappy conditions (saltwater, road salt, submerging), a properly vented/drained/closed frame will not rust out within its useful life. If you have a superlight frame, by all means...but that would surely fall under the "priceless" category.
 

robcleary

Well-Known Member

Or Fluid Film. One of Walt's customers did an informal shootout of stuff explicitly meant to protect bare metal. https://www.mtbr.com/threads/anti-corrosion-product-shootout.1073581/ . Fluid Film won, hands down...

But my personal experience has been that, unless you have a priceless frame, don't bother. Chromoly is already so corrosion resistant that short of intentionally riding it through crappy conditions (saltwater, road salt, submerging), a properly vented/drained/closed frame will not rust out within its useful life. If you have a superlight frame, by all means...but that would surely fall under the "priceless" category.
I have done the oxalic acid for a few bikes, the last was an 80s Bob Jackson due to some rust in the stays which is often terminal for steel. It works, I think you can still get it at the big box home improvement stores. @Karate Monkey what's fogging spray? Years ago I used linseed ago but was messy, a can of JP Weigle Framesaver usually covers 2-3 frames and much easier to apply. It's in my Niner ROS9, and no signs of rust so far but may be time to do another application at tend of season.
Thanks for the tips!

It's not a super valuable frame, it's triple butted chromoly but not high end steel afaik (it's a One-Up Rujo). Just trying to avoid any long-term damage since I like to hold onto my bikes for a while 😄
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Discovered my 6 month old steel gravel bike has a little internal rust already 😮‍💨 (any advice, please lmk. I'm thinking a long steel brush and some internal frame seal?)

On the good news side, I got my fork back from Gearwork, and my shock hardware arrived to put on the Topaz. Got everything bolted up, just need to get a ride in and dial them back in.
When I got my Surly Straggler, Weigles Frame Saver was off the market, so I used Boeshield T-9

What @Karate Monkey says holds in terms of application. Strip the frame and expect a bit of clean up.
 

SAM

Well-Known Member
Replaced Shimano XT resin brake pads on the rear wheel. They had 1,500 miles on them. I guess I don't do a lot of crazy descending. Got them just in time. Pads appear to be wearing unevenly from front to rear of pads and rear part of pads had practically nothing left. I reinstalled the front pads because they still have some life.

Top: Rear pads
Middle: New pads
Bottom: Front pads

IMG_8421.jpg
 
Top Bottom