The DIY thread - DIYourself

MissJR said:
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What am I doing wrong?

Caulking the bathroom tub: The spacing between the tub and the tile is uneven and pretty large in one spot. I've removed old caulk and cleaned the area. Let it sit overnight to make sure everything is dry. Clean again. Put backing rod in. Re-caulked. Let it sit for 24 hours with a tub full of water for a little extra weight while the caulk dries. Let the water out and let it sit for another day before actually using it... And it still seems to be coming apart again. WTF?
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Ive never had a silicone based caulk not adhere in the short term but i also never had a tub that moved a measurable distance.

I would retry with the best silicone you can find, make sure the backer rod isnt too big. If the gap is bigger than 1/2”, maybe fill with grout first?
 
Santapez said:
Is support under the tub an option?

The problem with the bathroom is it wasn't done that long ago. Definitely not our style but it's to new to rip out.

Plus, Lisa needs braces.
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If you have access underneath and it wasn’t installed properly in the first place, I’d block it up or something if t actually is sagging. Better that than taking a bath and falling through into the basement.
 
Magic said:
If you have access underneath and it wasn’t installed properly in the first place, I’d block it up or something if t actually is sagging. Better that than taking a bath and falling through into the basement.
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Magic said:
If you have access underneath and it wasn’t installed properly in the first place, I’d block it up or something if t actually is sagging. Better that than taking a bath and falling through into the basement.
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I should break out the calipers and measure the gap with and without weight in the tub.

But it doesn't seem to sag and doesn't make any noise when getting in. Mostly thinking they did the tile work with a small gap and then the tub settled creating a large gap.

No access underneath unless I'm re-doing the downstairs bathroom ceiling. I have to worry about building tiny home bathrooms in our backyard, not these bathrooms.
 
A few months ago, I tee'd a circuit to add an outdoor light. Can I tee off that tee?

I already started doing such. I took the tee and split wired in a switch, wired in one recessed can, tested it and it worked. Thought I was good, went to add the second and the breaker popped. Almost no way the circuit was overloaded.
 
My guess is something is wrong with either the new can or the wiring to it bc you should be fine with what your doing as long as your not overloading the circuit
 
qclabrat said:
Are these worth installing before insulation in an attic. The roof gets lots of full sun
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Most likely, no.

Why is "reflective insulation" still being sold by HD and Lowes - and used by many contractors? - GreenBuildingAdvisor

I stopped by my local HD for more supplies and was surprised to see rolls of "radiant barrier" bubble wrap on the shelf. Lowes and online vendors sell products with similar claims. For example, here are the benefits promised by a leading vendor: "An easy-to-install double reflective, double...
www.greenbuildingadvisor.com www.greenbuildingadvisor.com

www.energyvanguard.com

The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham - Understanding Radiant Barriers - Energy Vanguard

When I wrote about my trip to the Southeast Building Conference (SEBC) in July, I mentioned how some products on display there really annoyed me because they’re either bad to the bone or overhyped. The main one in the latter…
www.energyvanguard.com www.energyvanguard.com

A radiant barrier is a real thing that can work, but putting insulation directly in contact with it negates any of those benefits. In AZ it might be worth the effort to install with an air gap to the insulation but in practice, in the northeast, it most likely isn't.
 
ebarker9 said:
Most likely, no.

Why is "reflective insulation" still being sold by HD and Lowes - and used by many contractors? - GreenBuildingAdvisor

I stopped by my local HD for more supplies and was surprised to see rolls of "radiant barrier" bubble wrap on the shelf. Lowes and online vendors sell products with similar claims. For example, here are the benefits promised by a leading vendor: "An easy-to-install double reflective, double...
www.greenbuildingadvisor.com www.greenbuildingadvisor.com

www.energyvanguard.com

The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham - Understanding Radiant Barriers - Energy Vanguard

When I wrote about my trip to the Southeast Building Conference (SEBC) in July, I mentioned how some products on display there really annoyed me because they’re either bad to the bone or overhyped. The main one in the latter…
www.energyvanguard.com www.energyvanguard.com

A radiant barrier is a real thing that can work, but putting insulation directly in contact with it negates any of those benefits. In AZ it might be worth the effort to install with an air gap to the insulation but in practice, in the northeast, it most likely isn't.
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I use it below radiant floors...

good soffit and ridge vent will do the trick in an attic
 
Got a letter from the electric company that they couldn't replace the meter as it has been detached from the house and it's my responsibility to fix it. My understanding is that this requires an electrician in NJ since its working with live wires. Can someone confirm this and whether something I can do myself? @Mtbdog ?
PXL_20240411_002204554.jpgPXL_20240411_002154533.jpg
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i would think reattaching the pan to the house is as simple as a couple screws, based on the pictures it looks like you would have to open up the meter pan and reach the screws past the live wires, thats up to your own comfort level with electricity.

you could also look for meter pan brackets for the outside which i would think exist but havent looked for myself.
 
qclabrat said:
Got a letter from the electric company that they couldn't replace the meter as it has been detached from the house and it's my responsibility to fix it. My understanding is that this requires an electrician in NJ since its working with live wires. Can someone confirm this and whether something I can do myself? @Mtbdog ?
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New Jersey is pretty lax about everything electric except the service. They insist on a licensed electrician. The meter has the locking tag on so the only way in is to cut tag but only the electric company or licensed electrician should do this.
 
If it were me I'd cut the tag, pull the meter and stay away from the incoming side of the panel but you do you. Add a painted board just behind the top half and use short lags.

Casually place the tag in its cut form, or in electrician fashion use a zip tie or a twisted piece of wire, then reply to PSEG saying its taken care of.
 
Yeah, that kind of sucks.

I would want to half-ass it with "L" brackets on the external sides but wouldn't want to drill into it without making 100% sure I'm not drilling into a wire on the inside.

It's probably a 5 minute job to screw it back into the wall once the the cover is popped off. Use better anchors than the junk they used when installing it. Looks like they probably didn't even screw into the wood which would have added a ton of strength.

I doubt you're looking to upgrade it for any reason, but if you were considering outside electrical needs (A/C, hot tub, etc) now would be the time to switch that panel out for a Meter/Breaker combo.
 
ekuhn said:
If it were me I'd cut the tag, pull the meter and stay away from the incoming side of the panel but you do you. Add a painted board just behind the top half and use short lags.

Casually place the tag in its cut form, or in electrician fashion use a zip tie or a twisted piece of wire, then reply to PSEG saying its taken care of.
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I forgot to add, these are hired contractors doing this work. I've seen reports of those guys working on boxes like this can causing an arc flash. So now their directive is, if its not secured, don't work on it. Anyone else would just do it, but with PSEG Safety policys and procedures, those guys wont take the risk of getting their hands slapped.
 
Santapez said:
Yeah, that kind of sucks.

I would want to half-ass it with "L" brackets on the external sides but wouldn't want to drill into it without making 100% sure I'm not drilling into a wire on the inside.

It's probably a 5 minute job to screw it back into the wall once the the cover is popped off. Use better anchors than the junk they used when installing it. Looks like they probably didn't even screw into the wood which would have added a ton of strength.

I doubt you're looking to upgrade it for any reason, but if you were considering outside electrical needs (A/C, hot tub, etc) now would be the time to switch that panel out for a Meter/Breaker combo.
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I had the house repainted and they had to replace the fascia board where it connected to which was rotted out. It now PVC, but they didn't attempt to reattach
 
Ironjunk said:
Why not put a strap on the pipe? does it need to be stuck to the wall or just close?
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Letter from JCPL says the box needs to be fixed to the wall. Luckily I don't have siding which would need securing from the inside of the box. Planning to use either loctite or liquid nails adhesive
 
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