The DIY thread - DIYourself

The old tank weighed a ton and was completely full. Gotta say I was a bit nervous turning on the unit. Went to the other side of the house in case there was an explosion... Much easier that expected, though I needed to buy a slim long handled box wrench to remove the fussy tank.
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Btw, is 20psi normal? Isn't it supposed to be 15max?
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The old tank weighed a ton and was completely full. Gotta say I was a bit nervous turning on the unit. Went to the other side of the house in case there was an explosion... Much easier that expected, though I needed to buy a slim long handled box wrench to remove the fussy tank.
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Btw, is 20psi normal? Isn't it supposed to be 15max?
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Is the house 50' tall?

Fill valve set high?
Added pressure to the tank and it added pressure to system?
Might have a few more guesses..... But that should get you started
 
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I forgot to mention how heavy the tank is when it's busted. They start unscrewing easily towards the end and then drop and break toes, lol.

Sounds like your pressure is set too high on the regulator. You probably only need 12-15psi. You should set the pressure on the tank before pressurizing the system, just like pumping air into a tire. Then set the pressure of the system with the regulator to the same pressure as the tank.

With the pressure at 20 and the busted expansion tank, the pressure would definitely set off the relief valve when the water heats up.
 
I forgot to mention how heavy the tank is when it's busted. They start unscrewing easily towards the end and then drop and break toes, lol.

Sounds like your pressure is set too high on the regulator. You probably only need 12-15psi. You should set the pressure on the tank before pressurizing the system, just like pumping air into a tire. Then set the pressure of the system with the regulator to the same pressure as the tank.

With the pressure at 20 and the busted expansion tank, the pressure would definitely set off the relief valve when the water heats up.
The tank is supposed to be set at 12 but I didn't check. I'll be back down on Friday. I had renter there for two months with no issues, I turned down the temps after they left and a few days later found the problem. Guess I was on borrowed time and glad it held off.
 
I bought a 40cf tank for my mig and was having slug looking welds. managed to get penetration in thinner metal.

No matter what setting something was wrong. Didn't read the manual or do any useful research so i bought 100% argon tank.

I managed to make it work not sure to just run it through, purge and refill or sell and buy a new one.
 
I bought a 40cf tank for my mig and was having slug looking welds. managed to get penetration in thinner metal.

No matter what setting something was wrong. Didn't read the manual or do any useful research so i bought 100% argon tank.

I managed to make it work not sure to just run it through, purge and refill or sell and buy a new one.
Mig is typically 25% CO2/75% Argon.

100% Argon typical for Tig.
 
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@xc62701 bro your are tapping maple syrup?! That’s crazy. That shit is expensive!

How it started and how’s it going. I pulled out the dishwasher a little and the water connection on the (left) flex line end is dripping but once I pushed the dishwasher back in it wasn’t dripping anymore… is this normal? God I hate water supplies.
 
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@xc62701 bro your are tapping maple syrup?! That’s crazy. That shit is expensive!

How it started and how’s it going. I pulled out the dishwasher a little and the water connection on the (left) flex line end is dripping but once I pushed the dishwasher back in it wasn’t dripping anymore… is this normal? God I hate water supplies.

Which connection? Snug em down.
 
@Patrick the silver flex line that connect to the gold angle. It’s not dropping from the thread connection. It did drip from the point where the silver nut and mesh hose meet.
I would replace the whole hose. I did try to pull a fast one recycling the old one when I bought a new dishwasher (BTW, I'm new born Bosch follower now, thanks to all the good reviews on this website) but it was dripping exactly how you described your was...what's going on with all the tile demo?!?!? That seems like it would be the main concern!
 
The Maytag dishwasher was installed like 5 hrs ago with new hose 🤷🏻‍♂️ replace I guess so. On borrowed time.

Installing vinyl plank instead and demo tile (foyer) and linoleum (kitchen). We just upgraded the kitchen.
 
The Maytag dishwasher was installed like 5 hrs ago with new hose 🤷🏻‍♂️ replace I guess so. On borrowed time.

Installing vinyl plank instead and demo tile (foyer) and linoleum (kitchen). We just upgraded the kitchen.
It is a compression fitting. Any contamination can make it leak, any stress in one direction can do the same. Snugging it compresses the rubber a bit more.

There is a rubber hose inside the braided steel, it transitions to metal with a rubber compression washer (see above)

If it wasn't replaced, replace it. As Leo said
 
After replacing the mass air flow sensor (twice - first was faulty) and having the oxygen sensor replaced (twice - first was faulty, mechanic was dumbfounded), replacing the PCV valve finall got my Check Engine light to go away. Hopefully the light stays off this time.
 
After replacing the mass air flow sensor (twice - first was faulty) and having the oxygen sensor replaced (twice - first was faulty, mechanic was dumbfounded), replacing the PCV valve finall got my Check Engine light to go away. Hopefully the light stays off this time.

In other words, he unnecessarily replaced two sensors.
 
In other words, he unnecessarily replaced two sensors.
Sort of. I did MAF based on the AutoZone code read, and it didn't fix the problem. With a different but vague "burning too rich" error code, I didn't want to go hunting myself and it was reasonable to go on to the next logical cause when I told my mechanic the MAF was new. And the first oxygen sensor did turn out to be faulty. Then the light turned off for a week or so but tripped again, with the same original vague code that could be MAF or PCV. Warrantied MAF didn't fix it so I tried the PCV. Shitty, but just troubleshooting.
 
Bought some 2” slab wood from a guys in hopewell. 7’ x 12” walnut and 5’ x 8” cedar. Sanded from 60 to 300 and used a wire wheel on the for the knots and gouges. Filled in the knots and some gouges with wood filler. Shallac for the walnut and stain for the cedar. After shallac, did 400-3000 sand.
Way cheaper than anything could buy pre finished. I was going to do a butterfly in the crack on the walnut, but didnt think it was
Worth the time. Ordered some mending plates for the ends of the cracks.
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Was deciding to post this in the smile thread or here but picked here because it was at the top of the "latest posts" section when I logged in.

Probably about 6 months back my trusty reliable 10+ year old Garmin 510 bit the dust. It would not stay on and when it did it kept saying "loading..." and then would shut off. And of course that day I did a long ride and lost the file. On further inspection the rubberized front cover section which also had the buttons molded in was disintegrating underneath the nice silicone cover for the lap and power buttons. I stopped short of throwing it against a wall back then and its been sitting on my basement work from home desk ever since.

For some reason last night I decided to plug it in and try to power it on, and it was still doing the same thing (duh of course). But then I did a google search and after a few tries and combinations, came up with a web site from 10 years ago that exactly described my issue and how to fix it which consists of:

1. connect to computer/USB​
2. hold lap button​
3. hold power button​
This forces the device into Mass Storage mode and then from the computer, locate and delete all the activity and course files - error/frozen screen is due to one or more of these being corrupt.​
I was thinking to myself, there's no way I didn't find this and try it 6 months ago. or did I?

To test this I used a rolled up rubber bands and stuffed into the spots where the buttons were missing, plugged into laptop and then heard the most magical sound when a USB device is connected! Deleted all the files, restarted the Garmin and boom baby its back online!

Now my brain starts running away with ideas on how to fix the buttons - of course search online and find a replacement cover right? Yeah. No. even used they cost $50 or more and the device isnt worth that much. Plus I don't have @Patrick skills to take this apart and change screens etc... risk damaging it further since really its just the buttons that are missing. Because at that point I should change the battery too but again totally not worth it.

Hmm.. Silicone/Caulk - no might drip into the electronics unless I squeeze some out on a piece of cardboard and then shape it with a knife to fill in the whole
Oh wait - hot glue gun - i can melt some and once it cools a little shape it to fit in the holes.
even better, just cut some pieces off the cold glue stick and wrap it with some tape!

So here's the pictures and the results. It might not be ready for a rainy day any more but at least its functioning properly. I have yet to take it on a test ride but will do a short ride to make sure everything connects, saves and syncs.

Little wins like this sometimes make up for crappy days.

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