John the Plumber
Well-Known Member
I was going to guess a track bike....
What have you done to your bike today?
- Thread starter Chris(NJ)
- Start date
question for the pro mechanics...
When installing a threaded BB... Tape on the BB threads for sure... but what about the threads on the bike? Lil bit a grease there too?
@Steve Vai @jdog ????
When installing a threaded BB... Tape on the BB threads for sure... but what about the threads on the bike? Lil bit a grease there too?
@Steve Vai @jdog ????
Steve Vai
Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
I do tape and grease.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Anti-seize. I get it, it's got tubes but it's not plumbing either...also, steel or aluminium?
Yea I read Antiseize is better than grease because much less of it get pushed out when threading in the BB.
No idea on the Steel Vs Aluminum. I’m pretty sure Aluminum because steel is so heavy ?
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
I meant what is your specific application, fairly confident that the BB is aluminium but id the BB thread on the frame aluminium, steel (SS) or titanium? Aluminium doesn't play nice with both aluminium and SS steel once any type of contaminant comes into play so you may have to use a specific anti-sieze...Some grease (lithium?) are more conductive to corrosion in specific applications.
Is this ever really an issue? Maybe @Steve Vai runs into way more issues as a bike mechanic, but I've never had an issue unthreading a BSA threaded bottom bracket that I previously installed with ample amounts of marine grease.
Never into titanium but into aluminum and steel.
Never into titanium but into aluminum and steel.
I get a slight creak when pedaling under power. Only when torquing a certain way. So I’m trying to rule out the bb by overdoing the anti-creak suggestions.
rlb
Well-Known Member
Same, never taped (or heard of) taping a BB but then again I remove/install one maybe once every 2 years?
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
My BB creak turned out to be chainring bolts once I set to check it out.
Speaking about anti-seize, I actually use a thin film of it on the dropper post body inserted in the seat tube. No slippage, no corrosion bonding, just a little messy. And that it the one thing that would work against you regardless if you ride or not.
also reapplied loctite and retorqued my bolts.
Super tunable fork. Not the most fun to setup, but once you do it's the best out there.
Steve Vai
Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
Good luck. That Bottom Bracket sound could be something wildly dumb like one loose bolt in your front rotor.
Did you swap your pedals? I'm assuming you did.
It's always the chainring that creaks. 20 out of 10 times.
JDurk
Well-Known Member
Was exploring a switch of my TSE 5 day reg from 50+ to SS. Have a '16 Scalpel that doesn't get used much. I ride mostly rigid SS but that would be painful over 5 days in Central PA. The Scalpel has full lockout, a dropper and XD rear hub. Discovered that even though all info I found online said a 20t works with a Rohloff tensioner, the Zinger cog and upper jockey wheel were always in contact. Switched it to the 18t and all is good. Not switching my reg, but will ride it around home area.
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Throwing more $$ at the "problem" but the Paul Components Melvin chain tensioner is rated for 20T. Similar two-pulley setup.
I just thought of this, and not sure if ANOTHER component is simplifying anything but you can try something like a Wolftooth Roadlink.
JDurk
Well-Known Member
Thanks. As the plan was only to have a solution available to SS any of my geared bikes, went with the Rohloff vs Paul's based on 20t compatibility and price. Have also seen some Goatlink mentions on mtbr. The Roadlink looks like the better option.
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