fatty for SSAP? you wouldn't use your FS/XC bike?This is basically to toy with the idea of selling my ss rig and doing dual duty with the fatty. Then I will get the fs for other ventures.
fatty for SSAP? you wouldn't use your FS/XC bike?This is basically to toy with the idea of selling my ss rig and doing dual duty with the fatty. Then I will get the fs for other ventures.
Make sure the chain line is VERY straight and test it first. Make sure you test it by riding through a puddle or mud. But with that cog and tensioner, my works with no issues....even in the mud.
Are you talking about the flex in the arm? It works just like a derailleur. The closer jockey wheel doesn't move much, but either way it is linear and you never put torque on the slack part of the chain. Even if the lower jockey wheel is skewed a bit because you don't have the chainline completely straight, the upper one is the one you want to have directly in line with the cog. So main thing is use an 18T or smaller, and have the chain as straight as possible.Yeah, this amazes me that you get away with this given how fast you are. I just don't see how that tensioner doesn't give you problems. I don't get how it doesn't slip all the time because it's really just a lever arm that's frozen in place. I would think you'd be torquing the shit out of that arm when you are going 16+ mph for long periods of time. How does it not move on you? And you have to figure that if it does move, sooner or later, it's going ot move at just the right moment when you're going over rocks or something to throw your chain. But that doesn't happen. This is a mystery that troubles my soul.
Similar to the issues you had setting up the ENO. I am starting to see a common denominator.Yeah, this amazes me that you get away with this given how fast you are. I just don't see how that tensioner doesn't give you problems. I don't get how it doesn't slip all the time because it's really just a lever arm that's frozen in place. I would think you'd be torquing the shit out of that arm when you are going 16+ mph for long periods of time. How does it not move on you? And you have to figure that if it does move, sooner or later, it's going ot move at just the right moment when you're going over rocks or something to throw your chain. But that doesn't happen. This is a mystery that troubles my soul.
If you do this the FS will be your main adventure. wanna bet???This is basically to toy with the idea of selling my ss rig and doing dual duty with the fatty. Then I will get the fs for other ventures.
Are you talking about the flex in the arm? It works just like a derailleur.
Is there an ebb available for my situation if I were using a race face next fatbike crank?This was my point, though. I get that the tensioner could be super stable laterally, but torque can impact a derailleur negatively fore and aft if you climb in a big gear. I know that the normally slack part of the chain won't jump (that's basically the bottom of the chain on any SS) but the problem is if the whole system moves even slightly to allow the chain to slacken overall, it's just a matter of time until you'd drop it because terrain causes it to hop while there is slack. And I'm not saying it's a bad system - in fact, just the opposite. I'm saying that I'm surprised that none of this seems to happen because it doesn't look like it should work that well.
And @stb222 - I know you love to bring this up, but it's nothing like the ENO. My biggest problem with it was that the adjustment of it never sat correctly. I'd set it up for a given ratio, and then one of two things would happen every time - either the hub would rotate back and I'd lose tension or the whole thing would cause the wheel to slip out of the drops a little bit. The latter would happen because the bolts themselves seemed to get "locked" with the hub body and when the hub body would move, it would pull the bolts along for the ride lifting the wheel out of the drops. And the thing is, it wasn't just because of the idiot mechanic: the same thing happened whether I set it up or the guy at my LBS guy did it (and he's actually a really good mechanic.) I just never could get the design to work for me for more than a ride or two at a time.
Over the years, I've used just about every setup for a SS except a tensioner, so I can't say I know what they feel like in practice. They just seem like they'd be problematic (and maybe some are) and I'm surprised that someone who is putting a ton of torque into the drivetrain wouldn't have a problem with them, but obviously they work well for Utah. Ultimately, any SS will need adjustment over time (even independent of chain stretch) - you keep torquing on that drivetrain and something will eventually move. I've never seen any design that worked perfectly without needing any adjustments. I've had a pretty good run with EBBs, but I can't say I ever had significant problems with horizontal dropouts on the Misfit either. The nice thing about EBBs is that the adjustment is super easy and doesn't impact chain line at all, whereas with sliders, the adjustment can always impact the chain line. After-market EBBs can be a bit trickier to work with than, say, Niner's Bio II (which is, in my experience, the easiest design around for tension adjustment), but I still wouldn't call them difficult.
Well this Stinger thing is a fail. Too much bulk in the bb area on the carbon. I had to space the thing out 3/8" to get in line and have any adjustment without hitting the chainstay. Also, the bolt that holds the roller on hits the crank when lined up properly...onto other options.
Maybe try reading all the responses and you won't see anyone using suggested products to run up to a 22 cog 😉Maybe try listening to the people's recommendations who have actually successfully converted their bikes to SS ?
😉
Several people had issues with the melvin. The detaielleur type tensioners tend to skip with anything over 18t
Sure, gonna be at jungle tomorrow? I'll just try it for the day. I too will pay for quality but that doesn't mean expensive products are always the best.Would you like to try mine? I just need it back by SSAP 😉
Edit, I think I ran a 32 19 with it cause i let someone borrow my 18, lol. No issues
Is there an ebb available for my situation if I were using a race face next fatbike crank?