fat questions

29+ works but with a higher BB you would be better to go B+ as tire height is closer between 26fat and B+. I had posted the heights of the 3 but can't find it.
 
unless im missing some fundamental element, 29+ would land somewhere between a 26x4 and 26x4.6, and a 27.5+ would be shorter than a 26x3.8?

fatbb.png

S says bb height is 307 w/4" tire so i subtracted the difference (14mm) from everything on the second row

math is hard.
 
Not sure where you got that chart
One I had and saw were real live pics and measurements made by a poster. Just saying, computers and engineers can be wrong sometimes.
 
its just a screenshot of a google sheet i made, the 307 number i came from the big S site
i dont expect those numbers to be exact but i figured it would be a good ballpark

ill do some googling for realworld images
 
I think actual tire size compared to what is listed will make a difference too. I have tires listed as 4.7, but on 80mm rims, they are just 4.2"
 
If you go back to Jim's thread he had a set of 27.5 x 3"'s on his S-Works this summer, I don't want to speak for him but I know they are gone. My guess is you won't get much out of him though till Monday or Tuesday when he gets back from the race.

The 26x4 seems to be the go to tire for weight/trail access. It allows you to ride pretty much anything (beach included which is big for us in NJ) while being able to move at a good clip.

Anything beyond a 3.8 Huker Du or Knard starts to become bulky on the 50+ mile trips.

Then again, I take it your are thinking of using the said setup for the Fatboy if you do the TD this year? Then a 3" tire makes more sense as I would not consider anything bigger for the TD (but that is way outta my league right now).

If I were to run the TD, I think I would build a bike around a 29x3" Knard. Hardtail of course.
 
@Johnny Utah - a 3" tire is still "too much" for most TD racers if youre not on a unicycle, but yeah that would be the plan (though B+ i think would be best). i estimate the swap would save me around 10lbs of bike weight, which my legs would greatly appreciate with 150,000ft of elevation gain.

@mattybfat - you were right, B+ i think is the answer to all of lifes problems

B+ trailblazer in front of a 29 nano 2.1 -/- and -/- B+ trailblazer in front of a nate
WTB-275+-fat-bike-tire-middle-saddles-rims-2-297x198.jpg
WTB-275+-fat-bike-tire-middle-saddles-rims-6-297x198.jpg


basically the same all around, and at this point B+ has more tire choices, plus lighter.
found on bikerumor
 
the next big thing is gonna be making specific tyre sizes & patterns for trails & races
 
ok i need some opinions or advice or whatever.

first big order of business for upgrades is gonna be B+ wheelset, and a 120 squish fork for more technical trail riding/bikepacking



do i get the Fox 34 B+ boost fork for use only with those wheels?

or

do i get a Bluto to use with any set of wheels i build for it?



i cant tell if im gonna want to put a fat wheel on a squishy fork, and obviously the fox is a better fork.

guide me oh wise internet seers.
 
I would go bluto so you will have the same hub size as the rigid. I would personally go 65mm 4" instead of 27.5+, and use a thinner 4+ tire like the FBN when you want a fast tire. The Bluto isn't the greatest fork, some say the bluto is noodley. I haven't experienced that, but my 12omm sometimes has issues with sticksion, I've had it apart a couple times and its probably needs a rebuild, my 100m is smooth, but definitely bottoms out easier. My 2013 Fox fork has crappy mid stroke support and was somewhat better with a 2015 FIT cartridge, I don't have this issue with the Bluto.
 
I would personally do the FOX34 if you only want to run 27.5+ with it. I'll end up with this type of getup for summer use as well so you can wait and see how it goes if you're not in a rush.
 
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