Occasional Friday nights at Englishtown are American Muscle nights. Mostly Challenger SRTs and C6 Corvettes. Lots of guys running in the 11s. Would be nice to see a GT350 there!
GT350R Carbon Fiber Wheel Info
- Thread starter Carson
- Start date
Occasional Friday nights at Englishtown are American Muscle nights. Mostly Challenger SRTs and C6 Corvettes. Lots of guys running in the 11s. Would be nice to see a GT350 there!
Yeah to get in line at Starbucks.
This will make me feel so much safer when I'm pedaling on the shoulder of that road. Who needs Cars and Coffee to get hit by a Mustang.
Magic
Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Roaring fly by, lol.
rick81721
Lothar
Haha that seems to be a thing. I passed another guy in a mustang a few weeks ago going in the opposite direction and he did the same thing, downshifted and floored it to make as much noise as possible
rick81721
Lothar
Hey oil change question. Many of the fanatics on the mustang6g forums seem to doing the first oil change at 1000 miles. That seems a bit ridiculous to me, I was gonna wait until I get down to Florida, which would put her at about 2000. What did you do on your previous stangs and the M2?
Stang I ran until 5000 before first change since it was 9 quarts of full synthetic.
M cars require oil and differential change at 1200 miles. But since is an included service, I let BMW do it.
I would have no worries about changing at 2000 miles. I'm sure that's plenty early.
M cars require oil and differential change at 1200 miles. But since is an included service, I let BMW do it.
I would have no worries about changing at 2000 miles. I'm sure that's plenty early.
rick81721
Lothar
Thanks. This thing takes 10qts of 5-50 synth. Watching youtube videos it looks like it's a pain in the ass to do it without making an oil mess but will try
w_b
Well-Known Member
Unscientifically, 95% of the break in wear on a new motor happens in the first hour or two of running. Ok, maybe the first 20 minutes.
If the rings aren't seated by then, you got bigger problems that an oil change ain't gonna fix.
if you were ultra conservative, you should have changed oil after your first drive. Then go 5K if full syn.
Either way, enjoy!
If the rings aren't seated by then, you got bigger problems that an oil change ain't gonna fix.
if you were ultra conservative, you should have changed oil after your first drive. Then go 5K if full syn.
Either way, enjoy!
Monkey Soup
Angry Wanker
Don't know how much of this engine break-in lore applies to modern motors anymore. Most manufacturers run the motors before they leave the factory to seat the rings. The only reason you would want to "break it in" over a couple of thousand miles would be to release the internal stresses in the Pistons, rods, etc. from the casting or forging process. That's why you vary speed, the heating and cooling does this. That's why back in the late 70s early 80s BMW used to make their F1 motors from the iron blocks out of road cars with 60-70k miles on them. With modern forging, casting, and heat treating though, I don't even know how much of this still applies.
rick81721
Lothar
I'm going to do it myself. The drain plug is all plastic locking design, looks like a half turn locks it, with an o-ring. No magnet. Most of the moving/contact parts are aluminum
Probably true. People get so anal they even send out oil for analysis - I was looking at one guy's results and they find more Cu than Fe or Al.
with modern oils and manufacturing processes (including the factory engine run) break in changes are going to be recommended in the manual if they are needed, if its not there no need to do it. i ran the challenger to 5k with the factory fill, got the first change done for free, then at 10k i changed over and put full synthetic in it. First full run after that i went by the oil monitor light, and sent the oil in for analysis to verify the accuracy of the light, checked out with a fair bit of life left in the oil when the light came on. The light on the challenger was running about 10k between changes when i was driving it every day, and modern synthetic oils are WAY more than capable of doing their job for that long(hell mobile one is advertising their yearly change oil for 20k miles, their legal department wouldnt allow that to fly without the data confirming that its safe), anyone changing synthetic oil earlier is wasting their money, with one exception, do NOT exceed manufacturer max change interval unless you are willing to give up your warranty coverage, in that case and in that case only could changing it earlier make sense. note:this is talking about street driven cars, if you track the car then you will have to do oil analysis to determine how frequently to change it.
now remember you will need to buy the more expensive filter to get the 10-15k life out of full synthetic oil, or do a filter change mid life, the standard filters would start leaking on me at the seal about 5k into their life, brand independant, went to a purolator pure one 10k mile filter and have had 0 leaks since.
i happen to have alot of this information from someone who works in the lubricants industry designing the oils that go into you cars, but its your choice if you want to listen or waste your money.
now remember you will need to buy the more expensive filter to get the 10-15k life out of full synthetic oil, or do a filter change mid life, the standard filters would start leaking on me at the seal about 5k into their life, brand independant, went to a purolator pure one 10k mile filter and have had 0 leaks since.
i happen to have alot of this information from someone who works in the lubricants industry designing the oils that go into you cars, but its your choice if you want to listen or waste your money.
True..Plus...I cant think of any engines being made any more that are using flat tappet cams, or non roller rocker arms...(in the few pushrod engines left)... Gaskets/Sealing surfaces are far better now....My god, getting my old 390 to A. not leak oil somewhere B. remained sealed for say 25,000 miles? LOL...Good luck..The 3000 mile standard was also something that goes back to the era of carburetors...which due to fogging the engine down with raw fuel, degrade the oil as much as anything else. I know there is some risk of carbon build of up with some direct injection motors, but by in large...Engines are way cleaner inside now.
rick81721
Lothar
Good info guys. This vehicle has an "intelligent oil-life monitor" that tells you when to change oil based on usage inputs. Normal use it will be between 5-7K, extreme use 3-5K. I plan to follow this after the initial change.
On to bigger and better things, looks like the GT500 is coming next year. This looks interesting - speculation it will use a non-FPC, blown voodoo motor:
On to bigger and better things, looks like the GT500 is coming next year. This looks interesting - speculation it will use a non-FPC, blown voodoo motor:
I agree with this 100% with one exception: I know turbo motors are harder on oil but I don't know how much. Or how much turbos like fresh oil.
M2 is getting changed once a season which will be about 5K. Oil analysis shows it can go 7500+ easily, but I'm worried about the turbo more that anything. Staggered tires on the M2 so no rotations to worry about anyway. Raptor will get 5K oil changes while it's up my buddy's lift to rotate the $300 BFG KOs so they don't burn up. Jetta lease is getting changed once a year only because the dealer service is included in the lease (and I have the turbo spooled from startup to shutdown).
Question on the Bimmer: should I change it in the fall before it sits all winter or first thing in the spring? Or either?