OOS MOGA

why is everyone so freaked over DOT fluid, it's not like you're bathing in it. I just don't like working on different types needing variety of parts and tools
I just don't want a harmful chemical in the house and most other brakes use a formulation of mineral oil so my TRP, Magura, and Shimano can essentially use the same fluid. I know they say you have to use their formulation, but it isn't a significant issue to use one for all.
 
Is CR still on the calendar for next weekend (weather/trail permitting)? If so, I'll join you all then. If not, then maybe I'll join you guys HM Sunday.
probably not, right now every park gets pushed downwards a week

July 10: High Mountain
July 16/17: Hartshorne
July 23/24: Chimney Rock
July 30/31: Nassau
Aug 6/7: Stephens
Aug 13/14: Sterling
Aug 20/21: Sourland
Aug 27/28: Ringwood
Sept 3-5: Mahlon Dickerson
Jungle
Allaire
Creek
Round Valley
Columbia
Canal
Hudson
NYC
 
probably not, right now every park gets pushed downwards a week

July 10: High Mountain
July 16/17: Hartshorne
July 23/24: Chimney Rock
July 30/31: Nassau
Aug 6/7: Stephens
Aug 13/14: Sterling
Aug 20/21: Sourland
Aug 27/28: Ringwood
Sept 3-5: Mahlon Dickerson
Jungle
Allaire
Creek
Round Valley
Columbia
Canal
Hudson
NYC
oooh, planning Sourlands on my Bday weekend. might need to make a thing of it. will figure it out as we get closer.
 
It's mostly just the fault of the idiot that maintains my bikes brakes.
Here's a hint...leave them the F alone ! It's a sealed system. Only bleed 'em if they're pulling all the way to bars. And this advice is coming from a guy ( aka..me) who probably works on my bikes more than most of you. Most the time if your brakes aren't working it's due to contaminated pads, rotors, or you just plain need new pads. Whenever you open 'em up, you risk letting in air, and contaminating the fluid, no matter what kinda fluid it is. Unless you are riding Creek every weekend, there is no way you're getting the fluid hot enough to cause a boiling issue. Probably not even then. Biggest problem is probably storing your bike in a moist environment, or not changing your pads until the caliper piston is so far out that it damages the orings and let's in air. Unless you have internal routing ( which is the worst damn idea ever if ya ask me ) , don't cut the lines or open up that master or bleed screws untill you absolutely freaking have to ! ....your welcome.
 
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Here's a hint...leave them the F alone ! It's a sealed system. Only bleed 'em if they're pulling all the way to bars. And this advice is coming from a guy ( aka..me) who probably works on my bikes more than most of you. Most the time if your brakes aren't working it's due to contaminated pads, rotors, or you just plain need new pads. Whenever you open 'em up, you risk letting in air, and contaminating the fluid, no matter what kinda fluid it is. Unless you are riding Creek every weekend, there is no way you're getting the fluid hot enough to cause a boiling issue. Probably not even then. Biggest problem is probably storing your bike in a moist environment, or not changing your pads until the caliper piston is so far out that it damages the orings and let's in air. Unless you have internal routing ( which is the worst damn idea ever if ya ask me ) , don't cut the lines or open up that master or bleed screws untill you absolutely freaking have to ! ....your welcome.
I buy used brakes put em on and they pull to the bar. I have actually gotten much better and my shimanos that I got new but had to swap brake levers and bleed never had an issue. In fact since I started maintaining them they have gotten better, with that being said I do have to do a brake bleed on one.
 
They used to I thought. Lots of folks prefer no fins as they don't rattle as much.
Got the new one with the ispec ev or whatever and no fin pads.
Also... I thought they came with extra barbs and olives... none of that either. I feel ripped off. Lol
 
OOS mechanical @HM... B4 the ride!
20220710_092641.jpg


And they installed a bench in HM!
20220710_100929.jpg
 
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