Post your SS '20s Edition!

Pic of rear drive side please
Here you go - no change in the tensioning here. Moots has that pretty much nailed. Tensioning bolts with sliders is the best, lowest maintenance way to keep a SS rolling! The slider/hanger itself is made by Paragon Machine works. And I'm using gear clamps on a non-SS specific hub to align the cog.

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Here you go - no change in the tensioning here. Moots has that pretty much nailed. Tensioning bolts with sliders is the best, lowest maintenance way to keep a SS rolling! The slider/hanger itself is made by Paragon Machine works. And I'm using gear clamps on a non-SS specific hub to align the cog.

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Are the sliders Ti or Al? When I was ordering my IndyFab, I think sliders were std w/o tensioner bolts. Decided to go with rockers instead. I wish there was a tensioner bolt on my PMW rockers.
 
Are the sliders Ti or Al? When I was ordering my IndyFab, I think sliders were std w/o tensioner bolts. Decided to go with rockers instead. I wish there was a tensioner bolt on my PMW rockers.
They're Aluminum. I don't think you'd want Ti (or even steel) sliders - anything other than Aluminum might not be rigid enough since they have to fit into the titanium grooves. I'd think - and someone can correct me if I'm wrong - that flexible metal grooved up to flexible metal is probably not ideal.
 
They're Aluminum. I don't think you'd want Ti (or even steel) sliders - anything other than Aluminum might not be rigid enough since they have to fit into the titanium grooves. I'd think - and someone can correct me if I'm wrong - that flexible metal grooved up to flexible metal is probably not ideal.
Al is much easier to machine, therefore cheaper than Ti. Steel and Ti would be plenty rigid enough, but also heavier at the same geometry.
 
I do not answer calls i do not recognize, kicking myself now. Jeff from Canfield Brothers called me asked to call back. When I finally did he mentions he thought he had my color in large but was mistaken. I think he went down the list of who's next and I missed an opportunity for an early Christmas present. Kicking myself for not answering that call, he is now locked in my contacts. Was nice to chat with him, super nice guy. Really looking forward to throw a leg over that frame.
 
Moots Mooto-X - a few small changes, including a new BB standard. As a result of that, my old cranks wouldn't fit so I swapped them out. Other than that, the etched logo is now standard (previously, it was decals.) I like the look of the etched a lot more. It took forever to get this damn thing, so it's nice that it looks so good ...
Love moots, solid guys, helluva bike. I've been steered away from a Ti SS because frame flex can pop the chain too often. Have you found that to be true?
 
Love moots, solid guys, helluva bike. I've been steered away from a Ti SS because frame flex can pop the chain too often. Have you found that to be true?
No - I've never had that issue at all. If I drop my chain on the Moots, is always because I didn't check the tension before my ride and it takes seconds to adjust it on the trail. The tension system on Moots is sliders with retention bolts. At one point or another I've had just about every kind of tension system out there - about the only one I haven't tried is the Pivot rocker design, but that's really just a modification on the slider system anyway. (I've even tried the "golden ratio" on a non-SS frame.) And I have to say the slider w/retention bolt design is the lowest maintenance, closest-to-bulletproof design I've had. Unless your bolts wear out (which they can - they're aluminum), it's not moving anywhere. And if I'm carrying a multi-tool with a 4 mm and a 6 mm, it's a snap to adjust. I liked the 2-bolt Niner EBB system, but it's hard to adjust that on the trail because you really should use the torque wrench or you risk stripping it out, and if the EBB strips, there's no fixing it: it has to be replaced.
 
No - I've never had that issue at all. If I drop my chain on the Moots, is always because I didn't check the tension before my ride and it takes seconds to adjust it on the trail.
How often do you find your tension loosens? I only run HD 1/8" chains, so I find loss of tension directly parallels chain wear.

Unless your bolts wear out (which they can - they're aluminum), it's not moving anywhere.
This cannot possibly be true? Steel bolts and aluminum sliders, correct?
 
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