I did not move it as we just paid to have the system winterized. Once I open it I'm going to need to get it winterized again. Maybe, shut off the main and then open and close a few times?A valve like that which is probably a mix of SS & Teflon should last pretty much forever. It could have lasted basically 100 years, but also could fail after just a few years. Watts is a pretty middle of the road brand so it's not like you have a cheap valve. If you had a lot of flow over time and the valve wasn't fully open it can wear away the inside of the ball edge leading to a leak but that's uncommon, probably just not seating well on the teflon seat.
In all honesty you should Open/Close the valve more than once a year. Typically the worst thing I see with valves is them staying in one position for too long and that's what kills them.
For $125 to take a look you should hand him a new valve to sweat in place so you get another 25 years.
Did you try opening/closing it a few times to see if it seats properly?
If you're sweating off the old one, not hard to sweat on a new one.Just sweat it off and slide in a push connect valve for $25....
I assume they are pretty good, I have used them w/o issue.
I've replaced 3 backflow preventers over the past 7 years as they were inevitably cracked come Spring. Could be related.Well, if it feeds the backflow preventer, it will likely freeze and crack over the winter if not replaced.
I had one go bad 2 years ago and this is exactly what happened. After i cut the old valve out, i could see the plastic ball seal on the inside was deformed because hte original installer baked it sweating it on 20+ years ago. Replaced them with ProPress valves FTW.
Well that makes the plumber's visit seem like a bargain. Think I'll just pick up the valve then pay the $125 to have them come out. They'll use the $125 towards the repair "if it's done at the same time and they don't have to come back." If I have the part, they shouldn't need a second trip.If you're not comfy soldering, rent a propress tool and install that type of fitting. Super easy (though not exactly dirt cheap). After cutting the old valve out, you may need to replace some sections pipe/elbow since you wont have enough clean pipe to crimp on a new valve.
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Apollo 1 in. Brass Press x Press Full Port Ball Valve 94VLF10501A - The Home Depot
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TemptingCut it, push a shark bite cap on. Deal next year.
There is also a chance that water got into the line anyway. Another job for my compressor
Harder than push to connect especially if he can't drain the line...If you're sweating off the old one, not hard to sweat on a new one.
Harder than push to connect especially if he can't drain the line...
Duh, true.... So like some one said, cut it and hope a new valve is longerIf he can't drain the line he's gonna have a bitch of a time unswerving the old valve anyway
Just winterized the sprinkler and now have a slow drip out of the water spigot.
Not the way this was installed. When the sprinkler was added I believe the just went off the pipe that was originally just feeding that spigot.Call me crazy, but shouldn't these be separate? The line to the sprinkler backflow should have its own valve, and the spigot should have its own valve too.