The DIY thread - DIYourself

So the no hub coupling after my water meter developed a slow leak. There is a multi turn stop out of the floor that seems to be in ok shape but i'd rather not take chances without having a plan to shut off the street. Would a plumber shut both right away?
 
Ironjunk said:
So the no hub coupling after my water meter developed a slow leak. There is a multi turn stop out of the floor that seems to be in ok shape but i'd rather not take chances without having a plan to shut off the street. Would a plumber shut both right away?
Click to expand...

If you can get the water shut down to a trickle there is an expanding plug you can.use to stop it. Repair downstream.
There are also plugs that you can insert, cut and sweat new valve, and remove. Leave gate valve in place
 
Ironjunk said:
So the no hub coupling after my water meter developed a slow leak. There is a multi turn stop out of the floor that seems to be in ok shape but i'd rather not take chances without having a plan to shut off the street. Would a plumber shut both right away?
Click to expand...
Should be able to call the water company for a temp shut off very easily. Not sure who your water provider is.

Also if you do put in a new valve make it a 1/4 turn ball valve.

Patrick said:
If you can get the water shut down to a trickle there is an expanding plug you can.use to stop it. Repair downstream.
There are also plugs that you can insert, cut and sweat new valve, and remove. Leave gate valve in place
Click to expand...

Jet Swet. Not a Home Depot item tho.

1689943309878.png


Other option is to do it on the fly with a sharkbite, but if you haven't done it before, may prove disasterous.
 
Ironjunk said:
So the no hub coupling after my water meter developed a slow leak. There is a multi turn stop out of the floor that seems to be in ok shape but i'd rather not take chances without having a plan to shut off the street. Would a plumber shut both right away?
Click to expand...
Can you shut off the water at the curb, right before the meter? That's what I had to do when the main valve exploded under my house. Eventually had to call the town and they shut if off on the street because there was still a trickle (the valve right before the meter did not seal correctly). They were supposed to come and change it but never showed up...
 
ekuhn said:
Also if you do put in a new valve make it a 1/4 turn ball valve.
Click to expand...
This^^

I think it was 2 years ago we had to have a new dishwasher put in and both full turn valves on Either side of the meter in the basement were seized. Emergency plumber said no one uses those anymore
 
Thoughts on cutting a channel so I can drop in this replacement round top for an outdoor bar table? found in HD, but just a tad off. Anyway to use a router?
PXL_20230730_001359167.jpg
 
Santapez said:
They had one of these screwed into the siding with the center knockout out, with no bushing and romex cable popping through.
View attachment 202209
Then one of these into it with the romex through the center hole.:
View attachment 202208

And the back of the light had a lot of room to act as a junction box for the wire nuts. Something sort of this light.
View attachment 202211

Nothing really water proof about it.

New light was like this, so the wire just slammed into the bracket supplied with the light. The shallow box could sort of fit in the recess of the light but not with the wire.

View attachment 202212View attachment 202213

So temporarily I put a deep plastic box outside with the light attached. The wiring is within the box but I don't like how it's sticking out from the siding and there's no real water proofing.
View attachment 202217
View attachment 202214

The siding thing you posted looks sort of OK, but I think something that fits more flush to the siding with back cuts makes more sense.
I'm probably going to roll the dice on one of these or the more octagon size once I get a chance to take real measurements.

View attachment 202216
Click to expand...
Slight update on this even though I took care of it awhile ago.

So ended up rolling the dice on that Amazon option even though it was $$. I didn't like the amount of depth (or lack thereof) behind the siding for a pancake. I had to modify the angles on the bracket and cut up the siding a little bit with the oscillating tool but it's fine. Btw, oscillating tool is one of the best purchases I've ever made.

I should have grabbed a picture of the outdoor GFCI outlet I did but I'd have to fight off the spiders.

Front requiring the taller mounting block:
1690834457734.png

Rear that doesn't have night/motion sensing so it's a more square mount on the light:
1690834555232.png
 
Santapez said:
Slight update on this even though I took care of it awhile ago.

So ended up rolling the dice on that Amazon option even though it was $$. I didn't like the amount of depth (or lack thereof) behind the siding for a pancake. I had to modify the angles on the bracket and cut up the siding a little bit with the oscillating tool but it's fine. Btw, oscillating tool is one of the best purchases I've ever made.

I should have grabbed a picture of the outdoor GFCI outlet I did but I'd have to fight off the spiders.

Front requiring the taller mounting block:
View attachment 219958

Rear that doesn't have night/motion sensing so it's a more square mount on the light:
View attachment 219959
Click to expand...
Looks great, and 1000% agreed on the oscillating tool, I just wish the blades were a little cheaper...
 
serviceguy said:
I used them mostly on wood with nails, lots of nails. The only ones that seemed to last long enough were the Dremel Carbide blade, but $$$. Maybe worth giving those a try, I do have a couple of projects coming...
Click to expand...

That's funny. When I tried to use it to remove the rotted sill of a window, the nails (even the rusted-ass ones) laughed at the carbide blade. I wound up using a pair of side-cutters to snip them out, I think.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
its in the attic, turns it on when it gets too hot, turns it off when it cools down enough . . . .

DUH!
Click to expand...

I missed attic fan..duh.
Where does it get its replacement air from?
Hopefully the north side of the attic, and not the house.
 
Santapez said:
They're cheapish if you buy them on Amazon.

I've even been using it to cut down vines on trees.

View attachment 219967
Click to expand...
+1 on the cheap Amazon blades for most stuff. Fine for blowing out holes in sheet rock, rough cuts, basically any cuts that you won’t see. Good to keep a better blade around for when you need a better cut.

Oscillating tool was like my 3rd battery tool after getting the house. Had some Makita stuff already and just growing the collection, now with lawn stuff and more recently their sliding miter saw.
 
Karate Monkey said:
That's funny. When I tried to use it to remove the rotted sill of a window, the nails (even the rusted-ass ones) laughed at the carbide blade. I wound up using a pair of side-cutters to snip them out, I think.
Click to expand...
That is why I specifically used Dremel, other blades labeled as ‘carbide’ worked out just like the ones you used…
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom