What have you done to your bike today?

Did a lower leg service on my Bluto last night and hit the snow today.
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FitmanNJ said:
I'll keep that in mind, John. I used needle-nosed pliers to shape the coat hanger. Do you think I'd be able to do the same with the welding wire? With the added strength, that might be difficult to do with pliers. Maybe I would need to put it in a vice and hammer it into shape?
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I use a drill bit that is about 1/2-2/3 the size of the eyelet I am trying to make, then I clamp it in a vise. Make the eyelet first by wrapping the wire around the bit (you should be able to get a full circle without tools if you are using a full length rod). Clamp a second bit into the vise next to it (roughly the width of the wire you're using apart), and place the eyelet over one of them. Bend the free end until it's the right angle, flip, and repeat.

You used to be able to buy 6 foot lengths of tubing from KS Metals, in brass/steel/aluminum. They are mostly as strong, but easier to bend, though you need to heat the brass/aluminum incrementally while bending a full circle so it doesn't just tear apart. You can fill it with sand/cork or screw the end closed to keep it from collapsing when you bend it. When you're done, smack the mounting point flat with a hammer/punch.
 
Karate Monkey said:
I use a drill bit that is about 1/2-2/3 the size of the eyelet I am trying to make, then I clamp it in a vise. Make the eyelet first by wrapping the wire around the bit (you should be able to get a full circle without tools if you are using a full length rod). Clamp a second bit into the vise next to it (roughly the width of the wire you're using apart), and place the eyelet over one of them. Bend the free end until it's the right angle, flip, and repeat.

You used to be able to buy 6 foot lengths of tubing from KS Metals, in brass/steel/aluminum. They are mostly as strong, but easier to bend, though you need to heat the brass/aluminum incrementally while bending a full circle so it doesn't just tear apart. You can fill it with sand/cork or screw the end closed to keep it from collapsing when you bend it. When you're done, smack the mounting point flat with a hammer/punch.
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Thanks, Karate. Looks like there's yet another way to strengthen my rear fender stays! :thumbsup:
 
Jeremy said:
Rebuilt shock back on. I’ve used the shock lab for my last 3 rebuilds. A fox 32 step cast, my Sid Ultimate, and this fox float. Both forks came back feeling much better than brand new. I’m excited to try this one out.

I previously had it rebuilt by that local dude in NY (gearwork?) and it was kinda meh. When I had it in the middle position, it would “fall” into the locked position during rides. I told him it was happening and I don’t think he even tried because it was exactly the same when I got it back. The damper service was done. And it felt better than before I sent it in, but it still fell into locked.

I can already tell that it’s fixed by the equal resistance between positions.



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Maybe this is my shock? I couldn’t find any identifying info from the video. I’ll just assume it is.


 
Deboosting

Serviced an old, used fork for a coworker to replace a fork-shaped object. Found a bottom headset/crown race/equipment to mount it into the bike. Rebuilt a busted wheel with a new rim. Total cost: a 29" tube (because they did not want to use it tubeless).

We got the fork on, handlebars back together, and mounted the brake, and then I heard: "Am I missing something? The wheel isn't going in."

Then it occurred to me: the fork was hanging around because it wasn't boost. The "new" hub was. Boost conversion: easy, if kludgy...just a few spacers. Boost to non boost...that's a bit harder.

I pondered how I was going to do this: since I do not have access to a mill/fly cutter that can actually fit a built wheel, I either needed to unbuild the whole wheel, lop everything off one side, or skirt the adjustability of the brake mount by skimming some from one side, some from the other. I finally settled on taking off 7.5mm from the right side end-cap, and 1mm from the left side, and trusting that .75mm of misalignment wasn't really going to hurt a fork for someone who was puttering around.

Still, I had to sit and stare at the axle assembly before I realized: I didn't need to preserve the axle as is, it simply needed to fit the spacing of the fork. So, after zipping off the one end cap with a parting tool, I stuck it on the axle, and flushed it down. Not really sure how much length was necessary to fit into the hood of the dropout, I took the cap back a little bit for some extra wiggle room.

voila--hub, de-boosted:

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It looks good...ish. Maybe it'll even fit.
 
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