What have you done to your bike today?

between switching wheels, experimenting with tires and new bikes I've been on tubes for close to a year. Didn't take long to setup with Stans and a ghetto valve. Really needed the compressor for these high volume tires (fat alberts)
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Finally got around to setting up my old IronCrest wheel set for the Boone. Changed end caps on front from qr to ta style, new rotors on both (need to shim outward a little to match setup with CL wheel set) and installed new Ultegra 11sp 11-32 cassette.
Need to get those shims and wax both chains and get one on.
 
MadisonDan said:
Finally got around to setting up my old IronCrest wheel set for the Boone. Changed end caps on front from qr to ta style, new rotors on both (need to shim outward a little to match setup with CL wheel set) and installed new Ultegra 11sp 11-32 cassette.
Need to get those shims and wax both chains and get one on.
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Ironically have never waxed a chain, can you post some details on what it accomplishes and tips on doing so? I assume it's for protection, but please illuminate me...
 
qclabrat said:
Ironically have never waxed a chain, can you post some details on what it accomplishes and tips on doing so? I assume it's for protection, but please illuminate me...
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Free watts!!!
Using a paraffin wax instead of lube reduces friction and also keeps everything nice and clean. I've been using it on road and CX bikes for several years.
A friend of mine started it as a little side business while between jobs a few years back. http://www.waxmaxcycle.com/index.html

Here's the details for my setup.
I have two chains for each bike. Each wax treatment lasts 250-300 miles. While one chain is on the bike, I have time to clean up and rewax the other chain. When the current chain is ready to come off, it's a quick swap to put the other chain on. Muddy CX races shorten the life of the wax, but such is life.
Another friend of mine that rides a lot more than me (5-8k miles/year) has four chains in rotation.....

Process:
To start with an old chain, simply mail your chain to Andy, he will clean it in an ultrasonic bath, check for stretch and twist, apply the wax and return it to you ready for use.
To start with a new chain, simply purchase from his site, and go.

After the first cycle, I re-wax it myself. I simply clean the chain with the standard stuff, then wash it off in the sink to remove any cleaner residue, dry it off, and drop it in the hot wax for 12-15 minutes per side. There's a starter kit available, which is an electric skillet and a chunk of wax. I use a bent coat hanger to handle the chain in the wax. You need to agitate the chain while in the wax so it gets in all the pins and rollers. After it comes out and dries up, you do need to manually bend each link prior to storage or installation.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it's not too bad. Since the wax doesn't pick up any road grime or dirt, your entire drivetrain stays clean. Never get crap on your hands while changing a wheel, or making a repair/adjustment. The chains last longer. The cassette lasts longer.

Pro Tip - preheat the chain before dropping it in the wax, especially if right after washing, to eliminate any moisture bubbles and to speed the process. (Old toaster oven)
 
my chains seem to get rusty after few months
I wash the bikes after a dirty ride and use White Lightning or Triflow
but the chains still develop a rust

Use entry level chains like XT grades around $25, is it the cheap chains or should I change lubes?
 
I use the KMC X10.93 on road bike and X11SL on CX.
The 10.93 is $21 on Amazon, and the other is like $45 I think.
KMC missing link is key to changing often, although now Shimano has their own.
 
qclabrat said:
my chains seem to get rusty after few months
I wash the bikes after a dirty ride and use White Lightning or Triflow
but the chains still develop a rust

Use entry level chains like XT grades around $25, is it the cheap chains or should I change lubes?
Click to expand...
Do you dry the bike and chain after a wash completely before applying the new lube?

I've never seen any rust on my chains. Almost all of my bikes use KMC chains, Rock N Roll Extreme lube, and Simple Green with a brush to clean.
 
qclabrat said:
my chains seem to get rusty after few months
I wash the bikes after a dirty ride and use White Lightning or Triflow
but the chains still develop a rust

Use entry level chains like XT grades around $25, is it the cheap chains or should I change lubes?
Click to expand...

Chains rust when they get wet. It's not a big deal, imo. The working surface will keep itself clean, just like a brake rotor.
 
I think Walt's problem is he has too many bikes.
Only time I see rust in my chain is on my roadie... when I have not ridden it in a while.
 
question on where to get pedal and pivot bearings?
I don't think I've ever ordered sealed bearings, how do you measure them?
 
PonchoTempest said:
The angle is a little off, but my daughter only tolerates riding for a half hour at a time anyway.

It's just convenient that 3/4" pipe is so close to 27.2mm od.
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if her feet are hitting your knees, perhaps change the bend on her seat so the feet are further forward
 
qclabrat said:
question on where to get pedal and pivot bearings?
I don't think I've ever ordered sealed bearings, how do you measure them?
Click to expand...

Use a vernier caliper to measure the inner (shaft) diameter, outer diameter, and thickness.

You should be able to buy the pedal bearings from pretty much anywhere: Grainger, McMaster Carr, bearing supplier, etc. For the pivot bearings, however, you'll want to make sure you get full compliment bearings, intended for weight loading. These are reasonably available from Real World Cycling (aka Enduro Fork Seals)
 
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