Post a picture of your next bike part or mtb gear on order!

qclabrat said:
I was always a Campy fanboy till Shimano changed their hood design which was so much more comfortable at the time. Have they changed the hood design since 2000ish?
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The 10 speed hoods aren't much different than my original 8 speed levers. We'll see what the 11 speed levers look like when they arrive next week. It's the Campy shifters that I'm kinda married to. I tried Shimano shifters for a while and couldn't get used to them and had a similar experience when I tried SRAM cable shifters. My next road bike will probably have the new SRAM Red shifters. Mostly because I already have three mtn bikes with SRAM AXS shifting and keeping one type of battery charged sounds nice.
 
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Ian F said:
The 10 speed hoods aren't much different than my original 8 speed levers. We'll see what the 11 speed levers look like when they arrive next week. It's the Campy shifters that I'm kinda married to. I tried Shimano shifters for a while and couldn't get used to them and had a similar experience when I tried SRAM cable shifters. My next road bike will probably have the new SRAM Red shifters. Mostly because I already have three mtn bikes with SRAM AXS shifting and keeping one type of battery charged sounds nice.
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The 11 spd Record parts arrived today. They are in used condition, but no worse than expected. The bike they're going on isn't pristine either. The 11 spd hoods have a bit more girth to them than the 10 spd levers on the Grade. And substantially more than the original 8 spd levers.

The cranks didn't include a bottom bracket, which is fine because the Colnago is Italian threaded and it would have been a small miracle if the correct BB had been included. I noticed the bearings are on the cranks which seemed odd to me until I started looking for a BB. The Campy system is called "Ultra-Torque" and when you buy a BB for the frame, you're only buying threaded (or press-fit) cups. On the plus side - they're pretty cheap. On the other hand, I'll now need to look at the bearings on the cranks and see how they spin after a bit of cleaning. And then potentially research what the R&R process might be since they are pressed onto the crank spindles.

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After a search on the Park Tool website, it looks like I already have the cup installation socket in my tool collection.
 
That doesn't look big enough to allow you the torque needed for a cassette lock ring. Is there another handle for it?
 
shrpshtr325 said:
That doesn't look big enough to allow you the torque needed for a cassette lock ring. Is there another handle for it?
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When attached you actually crank the pedals for leverage to rotate the cassette. The tool holds the screw cap and wedges against the frame to keep it from rotating while you're cranking down. The white plastic piece fits between the tool and the frame to protect from scratching.
 
tonyride said:
When attached you actually crank the pedals for leverage to rotate the cassette. The tool holds the screw cap and wedges against the frame to keep it from rotating while you're cranking down. The white plastic piece fits between the tool and the frame to protect from scratching.
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I assume you carry extra drive side spokes too? I mean when else would you ever need this on the trail? :shrug:
 
a.s. said:
I assume you carry extra drive side spokes too? I mean when else would you ever need this on the trail? :shrug:
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No. I would just use it to remove the broken spoke. I can still ride out with one missing spoke. Not shred but ride enough without having to walk. Not a 100% solution but enough to make it suck less, like having a donut for a spare in your car.
 
Ian F said:
With a lot of hubs, the whole cassette and hub body just pulls off the axle when the wheel is removed. Sometimes there is a collar that might need to come off that is held onto the axle with an o-ring.
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Exactly, but the cassette is still secured to the freehub by the ring, hence the tool...
 
This makes sense if you're on a touring bike through the middle of nowhere Africa.

Touring people typically don't carry those for repairs, they carry them to tighten cassettes or centerlock brake lock rings enough to continue riding.

People don't generally carry spare spokes as you'd need to carry multiple lengths most of the time. Fiber-Spokes are a good temporary repair and $15
 
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