Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
many good options listed above, but im going to suggest you check the oil to see
a) if it has enough in it to keep driving it, top it off if not
b) mark what it DOES have in it and keep an eye on how fast its going down
Thx all.. The oil change was a few weeks ago now. Each time he leaves for work there's a new spot on the driveway, probably about the size of a 28t cog. He had the oil change done at Mavis (mistake 1) because his buddy was also going there to get a tire leak fixed.
He says he stopped in yesterday and they gave him a verbal $1,500 estimate, but can't remember exactly what they said (mistake 2). I told him under no circumstances to go there for anything other than a tire repair, and then, only if Madison Tire was closed. My neighbor has a good mechanic, we're gonna bring it there for a look see.
He says he stopped in yesterday and they gave him a verbal $1,500 estimate, but can't remember exactly what they said (mistake 2). I told him under no circumstances to go there for anything other than a tire repair, and then, only if Madison Tire was closed. My neighbor has a good mechanic, we're gonna bring it there for a look see.
if you want to swing it by my place ill take a look and see if its something simple
You just want a reason to use the quick jack
you didnt hear it squealing?
Few thoughts....
I would first check the oil and make sure its full...or at least on the dip stick before I drove it anywhere.
Make sure the filler cap is installed...
How bad is it leaking? a few drops? or a pool? Should be able to see the drain plug pretty easily and get a wrench on it and confirm its tight.
Is it def. oil? Its hot/humid and AC condensers will regularly drip condensation from underneath.
w_b
Well-Known Member
Just got back from my local Mavis after inquiring about replacement trailer tires. I can confidently say that the caliber of personnel there has really slipped. It felt like I knew more about their offerings than they did. I promptly ran away when "how much to mount up the new tires?" was greeted with a blank stare and uncomfortable silence. Maybe the trailer part threw them off? I explained I would bring in the old wheels & tires, but this was too complex for my tire expert.
Back home, and etrailer has them for less $ with free shipping. Done. I could have actually probably bought them already mounted on new galvanized wheels for almost the same price as just tires and labor at Mavis. But who needs all those unused wheels sitting around? Not me.
I'm in south Edison, border of Highland Park. Anyone have a local shop recommendation to swap out four ST215-75D14 tires off galvanized wheels for me? Nothing out of the ordinary regarding tires or wheels. Rather not pay $30/wheel, seems excessive, no?
TIA.
Back home, and etrailer has them for less $ with free shipping. Done. I could have actually probably bought them already mounted on new galvanized wheels for almost the same price as just tires and labor at Mavis. But who needs all those unused wheels sitting around? Not me.
I'm in south Edison, border of Highland Park. Anyone have a local shop recommendation to swap out four ST215-75D14 tires off galvanized wheels for me? Nothing out of the ordinary regarding tires or wheels. Rather not pay $30/wheel, seems excessive, no?
TIA.
@MadisonDan what happened with the car?
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
That's the going rate by me including disposal. Used to drive to Newark or Plainfield, but not worth it anymore with hazards driving around those towns. Two years ago, I used simpletire.com with good results. Order there then picked a local installer where the tires are shipped. The install price was under $60 for 4 tires including disposal. $200 for 4 snow tires installed was dirt cheap.
Actually... mechanic looked at it, thought it was leaking from the filter. Changed the filter, cleaned it up, and added a little oil. Told Trevor to keep an eye on it, which he has not. Above scenario is 100% possible.
THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
Didn't know all this oil talk was happening. Well, we have a 20 year old pickup that sees a 2-3 thousand miles a year. Bought 3 years ago. First oil change yesterday. I don't miss this at all but I'm glad to do it clean and right. Even with Walmart synthetic!
id stay away from synthetic on an old vehicle that hasnt had it....if its always had synthetic, fine....but otherwise, your begging for new oil leaks.
why?
Its thinner than conventional oil.....old vehicle with old gaskets that might be sweating/leaking a bit...its going to make the situation worse for little gain if you arent putting many miles on the car. 2-3000 miles a year on a car, id say you have more issues with moisture getting in the oil from sitting around/condensation cycles.....bc of that, I wouldnt change the oil based on mileage, more based on time. My mustang for example that doesnt get driven alot....I never look at the mileage, I change it when its going away for the winter....maybe it runs a few times over the winter, then I change it again in the spring after its been sitting.
Mr.Moto
Well-Known Member
this is false. if the weight on the bottle is the same the thickness is the same, thats what the weight is.
Synthetic oil is a more durable blend and it can hold more contaminants in suspension (hence the longer drain intervals). The reason switching to synthetic in a high mileage vehicle causes oil leaks is because synthetics have better/stronger detergents which can clean up any build up formed by the conventional oil letting the contaminants settle out around the seals as the oil slowly seeped through.
-wife unit.