THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
Have you tried it?
Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
cant say that i have, is it any good?
Dave Taylor
Rex kwan Do
Here’s a good one. I’m a bit stumped( not completely, just don’t want to gamble on a $500 door motor…here goes. I have. 2013 Toyota Sienna. Driver sliding door cable broke and I replaced it. No biggie. Now the passenger side door broke. It will latch itself so the door latch motor is working. It will not power open however. I can actually hear the Door opening motor working but it doesn’t move so I assumed the cable was internally broken. Long story short I replaced the cable assembly and no go. I disconnected cable and the motor still spins. Is it possible thw motor works but not under load? Internal gears that don’t work under load?
Some of the gear reductions are composite so stripped internal gears is a real possibility. Won't know without opening it up
This seems to be reoccuring problems with Sienna. I have the same issue with mine where the driver side busted couple of years ago and i never botheres fixing it. Taking it too a shop was expensive to fix and i do not have the knowledge to fix it either.
If we need to open it, manual is it.
Dave Taylor
Rex kwan Do
It’s not bad if just the cable is broken. I can help with that. Takes under an hour.
Thank you for the offer. I might take you up on it. I keep debating to see if it is even worth to fix it considering the mileage (240k) and I only drive it occasionally (work at home) during the week and during warm weather to haul the bike or long family trip couple of times a year.
THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
teabagger11
Well-Known Member
I couldn't remember when I posted the 240K mark but here's an update
Pic taken on 476 going 75 mph an example of bad driving I know but couldn't miss a milestone and traffic was light
not likely, they are all too busy 🤣
iman29
Well-Known Member
when the tester shows too much mositure. but at 19 years old if you havent done it yet, i would just do it, mileage is irrelevant.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Lol, nah it was last done two years ago. Brakes pads were done about the same time and are still firm
2 years on a daily driven car or a garaged car no worries. You could test it but chances are the light is a timer of some sort nothing more so just reset it and go about your life
olegbabich
Well-Known Member
I do every 2 years, grease all caliper pins too and check everything.
i know its cheap if you DIY it, but 2 years is overkill for your standard dd situation, hell my truck is almost 8 years and the brake fluid still tests out ok on the moisture probe.
knobbyhead
Next off the Island.
So new problems with my 2001 gmc yukon: (i think bad ground?)
Symptoms:
1. Dashboard odometer lights sometimes flash/ sometimes doesn't (probably unrelated)
2. Turn signals work fine with daylight headlights on.
3. When I turn on the parking lights, or headlights, the tail lights are nice and bright
4. With the parking lights/headlights on, if I turn the right signal on, the left light will light dimly and the right signal light flashes very fast. It will be the same results with the left turn signal.
5. With the brakes on, and the parking lights/headlights off, the turn signal work fine.
Therefore, for some reason current from the tail lights are going though the turn signal circuit with the headlights on.
So, with #4 and #5 symptoms, the only difference being the headlight switch, I gather I have a bad headlight switch?
Symptoms:
1. Dashboard odometer lights sometimes flash/ sometimes doesn't (probably unrelated)
2. Turn signals work fine with daylight headlights on.
3. When I turn on the parking lights, or headlights, the tail lights are nice and bright
4. With the parking lights/headlights on, if I turn the right signal on, the left light will light dimly and the right signal light flashes very fast. It will be the same results with the left turn signal.
5. With the brakes on, and the parking lights/headlights off, the turn signal work fine.
Therefore, for some reason current from the tail lights are going though the turn signal circuit with the headlights on.
So, with #4 and #5 symptoms, the only difference being the headlight switch, I gather I have a bad headlight switch?