Car-spotting thread

Is it true the 911 will be Porsche's only ICE car?
It looks that way. The 718 goes electric in 2025. They'll likely sell the ICE version along side for the first year, then it goes away. If/when the 911 goes electric, then that's about it for Porsche, there isn't anything that really makes them special at that point. Electric is the great equalizer, it gives every car company the chance to reinvent themselves. In the future EV world, what separates a Kia from Porsche from a Toyota from a Ford from a Tesla?
 
It looks that way. The 718 goes electric in 2025. They'll likely sell the ICE version along side for the first year, then it goes away. If/when the 911 goes electric, then that's about it for Porsche, there isn't anything that really makes them special at that point. Electric is the great equalizer, it gives every car company the chance to reinvent themselves. In the future EV world, what separates a Kia from Porsche from a Toyota from a Ford from a Tesla?
Good point. I guess some will be dog ass ugly and then there will be Porsche. There is still nothing like the looks of a 911.
 
It looks that way. The 718 goes electric in 2025. They'll likely sell the ICE version along side for the first year, then it goes away. If/when the 911 goes electric, then that's about it for Porsche, there isn't anything that really makes them special at that point. Electric is the great equalizer, it gives every car company the chance to reinvent themselves. In the future EV world, what separates a Kia from Porsche from a Toyota from a Ford from a Tesla?

Pretty strong rumors the 2025 992.2 GTS and Turbo models will be hybrids and PDK only. Time will tell.
 
Good point. I guess some will be dog ass ugly and then there will be Porsche. There is still nothing like the looks of a 911.
A huge part of the 911 is the rear-mounted flat 6. Its a form follows function car. Its a car of idiosyncrasies, all of which are are derived from the engine and its location. Take away that motor and its pointless to have something that looks like a 911.
 
Sunday was the Northeast Carrera T Meet in Stony Point, NY. We headed west to Warwick, around Greenwood Lake, then through Hawk's Nest. Then lunch with the NJ guys in Port Jervis before heading home on NJ-23.

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I'm curious, are you going to change the oil every 15,000 miles like Porsche says to? Those intervals seem a tad long, but who are we to argue with the those nerdy German engineers in lab coats with pocket protectors?
 
I'm curious, are you going to change the oil every 15,000 miles like Porsche says to? Those intervals seem a tad long, but who are we to argue with the those nerdy German engineers in lab coats with pocket protectors?


for normal driving 15000 miles is perfectly acceptable for most new cars with synthetic oils, i have oil analysis from blackstone on my truck at ~16k to confirm it (i change that based on operating hours rather than miles). I also have access to someone who designs motor oils for a living so . . . .
 
I would do it more based on:

1. How long has the oil been sitting around? In @Carson 's case, his car/oil sits in a controlled, museum like environment which isn't subject large swings of temp/humidity....thus it won't pick up alot of moisture.
2. What are you doing to the engine? Cruising around at highway speeds? or banging off the rev limiter at a track day? In the case of a turbo car....long periods of time on boost where the turbos/oil is getting really hot....which is probably why a 911 holds 8-9 quarts.

I think my mustang gets the oil changed every 3-500 miles..(at the start of every year and before the winter)..but it sits in the cold/heat....has a carb with mechanical secondary's that pollutes the oil with WAY more gasoline than a modern direct injection car would.....and it needs/likes 20w50 oil, so I dont even like to turn it over when its below about 40 degrees unless I have to.
 
@Carson @shrpshtr325 how much time would you say it takes for a modern turbo engine (at say 70 degrees ambient daytime temps) to get to oil temp sufficient to burn off moisture? My oil temp gauge will reach normal operating temp (~235F) in about 15 mins. I usually drive it at least 30 minutes when I take it out (mix of country roads and highways). Try to avoid shorter drives especially in colder weather. Thoughts?
 
Saw this Ford GT in Flagstaff. 99% sure I saw this exact same car 1 or 2 years ago on a residential street. Layer of dirt and parked under an awning on what looked like an abandoned building but is actually an investment office. The dirt on this thing would make Carson cry.
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Walked by old school Ford Dealership that was smaller than most fast food restaurants. This was the car that was in the showroom.
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@Carson @shrpshtr325 how much time would you say it takes for a modern turbo engine (at say 70 degrees ambient daytime temps) to get to oil temp sufficient to burn off moisture? My oil temp gauge will reach normal operating temp (~235F) in about 15 mins. I usually drive it at least 30 minutes when I take it out (mix of country roads and highways). Try to avoid shorter drives especially in colder weather. Thoughts?


the answer is the same for all engines actually, the turbo is irrelevant to this question. As long as the oil temp exceeds the boiling point of water it will boil out and be evacuated thru the PCV (on a modern car) this will typically also be enough to help evaporate the fuel out of the oil unless you have a major issue (stuck injector, dead coil cylinder, fuel leak)
 
@Carson @shrpshtr325 how much time would you say it takes for a modern turbo engine (at say 70 degrees ambient daytime temps) to get to oil temp sufficient to burn off moisture? My oil temp gauge will reach normal operating temp (~235F) in about 15 mins. I usually drive it at least 30 minutes when I take it out (mix of country roads and highways). Try to avoid shorter drives especially in colder weather. Thoughts?

15 minutes is about right. I don't start the 911 unless it's going to be driven for 30 minutes and I don't romp on it until the oil temp is up.

In bitter cold temps, the GLI wouldn't get to full operating oil temp (210) on the way into work, which was 13 miles and almost 20 minutes.
 
@Carson @shrpshtr325 how much time would you say it takes for a modern turbo engine (at say 70 degrees ambient daytime temps) to get to oil temp sufficient to burn off moisture? My oil temp gauge will reach normal operating temp (~235F) in about 15 mins. I usually drive it at least 30 minutes when I take it out (mix of country roads and highways). Try to avoid shorter drives especially in colder weather. Thoughts?
It depends on your car also. Modern cars are designed to warm up quickly for emissions reasons. Depends on where your thermostat is programmed to open and close. Also, some cars have active fraps in the grill that open and close to allow/restrict airflow going to your radiator.
 
for normal driving 15000 miles is perfectly acceptable for most new cars with synthetic oils, i have oil analysis from blackstone on my truck at ~16k to confirm it (i change that based on operating hours rather than miles). I also have access to someone who designs motor oils for a living so . . . .
Since you have access to this person who designs oils, I have a question that I'd be curious on hearing their opinion. What's with the this move to such lightweight oil these days (0w20, 0w15)? Is it for emissions and mpg (my guess)? Is it because engines are being designed to such a high-level of precision? Is it to heat up quickly and boil off all those volatiles that gung up the intake valves in DI cars? Is it to shed heat more quickly than a more viscous liquid? And how do they protect against viscosity breakdown in something where the viscosity is already so low, more detergents and additives? Just curious.
 
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Since you have access to this person who designs oils, I have a question that I'd be curious on hearing their opinion. What's with the this move to such lightweight oil these days (0w20, 0w15)? Is it for emissions and mpg (my guess)? Is it because engines are being designed to such a high-level of precision? Is it to heat up quickly and boil off all those volatiles that gung up the intake valves in DI cars? Is it to shed heat more quickly than a more viscous liquid? And how do they protect against viscosity breakdown in something where the viscosity is already so low, more detergents and additives? Just curious.
Also...better MPGs...thinner oil=less friction. Most valvetrains are now rollerized compared to the flat tappet like my old 390. Tight tolerances, especially with castings. People pine for the old 60s stuff, but really, its junk compared to a modern engine. I have spent ALOT of time with my 56 year old ford 390 on the engine stand....we should all be thankfully that engine blocks are not casted this way anymore.
 
It depends on your car also. Modern cars are designed to warm up quickly for emissions reasons. Depends on where your thermostat is programmed to open and close. Also, some cars have active fraps in the grill that open and close to allow/restrict airflow going to your radiator.

They definitely warm up the catalyst quickly with the cold start sequence and secondary air pump, but do the engines warm up any quicker? The oil temp, which is the important one? I dunno.
 
They definitely warm up the catalyst quickly with the cold start sequence and secondary air pump, but do the engines warm up any quicker? The oil temp, which is the important one? I dunno.
Technically, if the thermostat opens later and you prevent airflow to the radiator, then the water circulating around you block should get hotter faster, and ultimately oil, which also serves a secondary function of cooling your engine.
 
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