one piece crank
1pc Cranky
Yeah, that word wax is what I can’t get past. That and the solids claim. All of which seems counter intuitive to a lubricant.
Keep the feedback coming.
Chain Wax Discussion thread
- Thread starter Jeremy
- Start date
Keep the feedback coming.
molybdenum disulfide
When you immerse a chain in wax, the wax gets in between the pins and the rollers and takes up all the space in there. Eventually, after 150-200k (on road in good conditions) the wax works itself out and you need to re-apply. But even as it works it’s way off the chain, the wax isn’t sticky and contaminants don’t stick to the chain.
When you use an oil based lube, dirt and dust stick to the chain and work their way into this area between pin and roller which is what causes a chain to wear out. As I’m sure you know. This is the premise for why waxing works so well.
For those doing this, how are you treating the quick links? I've been reusing Shimano/SRAM 11/12 speed until it no longer takes a ridiculous amount of force to close them, perhaps 5-10 times. I recognize that this isn't what they recommend, but I think I've broken one chain riding, ever, so I'm not incredibly worried. I know there's the Wippermann link that's designed to be reused, but haven't really looked into it.
I pretty much do the same with quick links on waxed chains.
I use this initially
SILCA Secret Chain Blend - Hot Melt Wax
The fastest chain lube treatment ever tested. Waxing a chain is the fastest and cleanest option for your bicycle. Get the ultimate cycling upgrade today.
silca.cc
And then I use the drip wax to reapply 5-6 times before I take the chain off and re-immerse.
That keeps me from burning through quick links too fast.
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
This makes more sense that is not just wax. I used dry lube for 10+ years on my SS and was really pleased with it. I tried all types - drip, aerosol, Krytox, etc. In the end I preferred aerosol for penetration after the carrier evaporated, but it’s not the most cost effective or environmentally responsible choice.
Back with 11spd I had reusable quick links, so every aerosol application was off the bike and flushed the chain.
Given the effort and dedicated space required for wax, I’d like to see freshly lubed chains, with the links disassembled to show penetration/retention inside the rollers - for wax, wet, and dry lubes. Then the same after a few hundred miles.
Back with 11spd I had reusable quick links, so every aerosol application was off the bike and flushed the chain.
Given the effort and dedicated space required for wax, I’d like to see freshly lubed chains, with the links disassembled to show penetration/retention inside the rollers - for wax, wet, and dry lubes. Then the same after a few hundred miles.
Ian F
Well-Known Member
Getting inside the pins and rollers is one of the main problems with wet or any of the surface-application lubes - not a lot of the lube actually makes its way into those spaces. Because the chain is completely submerged in the molten wax, more of those inside surfaces can get covered with lubricant.
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
I’ll send someone a few take-off links of chain so they can do the wax-guy sonic-clean and crock-pot, then return to me. I use the equivalent take-off links to clean and lube in my non-wax-guy method.
Then I’ll disassemble them for side-by-side photographic documentation.
Then I’ll disassemble them for side-by-side photographic documentation.
To fill the rollers with drip lube i usually saturate the chain then run it over my fingers to not absorb liquid but allow lube to creep in. I would think plenty gets in.
I'm sure that it does, and we're largely talking about very minor differences, but all of the data that I've seen does consistently show that waxes are the most efficient/longest chain life.
I'm waaaay too slow to care about the differences in efficiency, but at this point I'd rather deal with the slightly more elaborate hassle of using wax than cleaning/degreasing a drivetrain using conventional lube.
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rosceaux
Well-Known Member
8 watts is 8 watts amirite
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
That’s about my total 🤣
Based on this, the difference between MSW and the lowest efficiency lube tested was 3.68W. Having only skimmed most of these articles, I think that's based on clean/new conditions with some run in, but not accounting for dirt/water/etc. Efficiency for most of the wet lubes drops off a lot once real world conditions are factored in, so I could see 8W after actually riding outdoors for a period of time (given how consistent an immersion waxed chain stays). Testing was at 250W, although I'm curious how much losses are correlated with power output.
Maybe I should open a pre waxed chain store.
www.icefriction.com
$150 for an XX1 eagle chain!
Shop | icefriction
www.icefriction.com
$150 for an XX1 eagle chain!
Ian F
Well-Known Member
I suppose it depends a bit on if they are able to buy chains wholesale or if they are paying retail. Looks like a pre-waxed chain is about double the price. It does seem like there's a fair amount of labor involved, however if you are waxing multiple chains, I'd imagine you can go through the various steps with more than one chain. Something I'd think about since I have 3 mtn bikes that all use Shimano 12 spd chains. I could do 4 chains all at once (may as well have a spare ready).Maybe I should open a pre waxed chain store.
Shop | icefriction
$150 for an XX1 eagle chain!
My buddy did this back in 2014 when he was between jobs. That’s how I started waxing the chains for my CX and road bike. I stopped when I stopped racing CX.Maybe I should open a pre waxed chain store.
Shop | icefriction
$150 for an XX1 eagle chain!
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krink
Eddie Munster
Yes! Another convert
krink
Eddie Munster
I dip in boiling water, dip in wax, and reuse all my quick links. Haven’t had a chain fail since I started waxing 4 years ago. I’ll let you know when it happens.
carvegybe
Well-Known Member
Not sure this will be useful for others but my impression is that unless you are very disciplined in how drip wax is applied to each link, it is better to trust the full chain immersion method. This means I don't ever apply drip wax, I just rewax the chain more often. This is easily done while working from home because it takes a while to get the wax to melt...I simply do it while working. Then when the wax is melted, I pour boiling water over old chain, move it around in its dish to shake off any remaining old wax or dirt, cool the chain off, wipe it with microfiber cloth, and drop it in the melted wax...then it is important to move/agitate the chain around to let the wax penetrate the chain...you'll see bubbles.
Now a question on my mind is this: does the Silca wax product work equally well with the new sram transmission which has tighter spacing between chain and cogs. I assume yes because pin spacing doesn't change but then again I am not familiar with the flat top chain. What's different about it? If any waxers out there drop the dough on the newest SRAM tech, please provide some feedback. Thanks!
Now a question on my mind is this: does the Silca wax product work equally well with the new sram transmission which has tighter spacing between chain and cogs. I assume yes because pin spacing doesn't change but then again I am not familiar with the flat top chain. What's different about it? If any waxers out there drop the dough on the newest SRAM tech, please provide some feedback. Thanks!
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