Going up to a 40/42T Am I nuts?

bm1981

bm1981

Member
I've got a couple of mechanical questions and one sanity check.. I haven't been riding much and I'm not in great shape and weigh in around 225LBS. Needless to say climbing is a challenge for me. After a recent ride up to chimney rock I got my butt kicked and walked up the upper 1/3 of most climbs and my HR was pegged in the red. I got the idea of changing out my cassette to one w/ a few lower ratio options.

Current set up 11-36 SLX Md Cage, 26/36 chinrings. Initially I thought I could just change out the cassette for the Sunrise 11-40/42, However Cannondale puts the medium cage on the bike and the largest cog Shimano recommend is a 36T.

I'm not sold on the 1X idea at the moment because even w/ a 28 in the front I'm still geared higher than I am now. Maybe eventually but for now I don't see how it benefits me.

My question is are 2 fold -

Should I do it:
Am I nuts for gearing down this low? Will I be able to keep forward momentum at 40/26 or 42/26? Or should I just enjoy the suck and ride more hills?

How Can I do it:
Looks like the Medium cage SLX is a non starter so at minimum I'm in for new Derailer $47/ Cassette $75
May also need Goat Link $20 New Chain $20, longer 25 MM B - limit Screw $1 = $165.. Am I missing anything?


For $165 in parts is it worth it? (I know I'm well on my way to a 1X conversion when I get in better shape) or should I just shut up and ride more hills.

  • 11-40T Cassette Cogs: 11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40
  • 11-42T Cassette Cogs: 11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 42
  • 11-36T Casette Cogs: 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36
 
Granted CR has some tough sections but it's not the bike's fault. Best thing about 1x is the weight savings in rings and shifters.
 
I ran the med cage on my 2x set up for awhile. Just never go big-big and it was fine. At 32x42 on the 26r it is crazy,pulling stumps out, low.
 
Before you spend any $$, take a look at what you will gain in gear inches. A quick calculation shows that a 26 / 36 (your lowest gearing right now) gives you 20.8 gear inches assuming you have a 29er with 2.2" tires. A 1x with a 30 chainring / 42 cog will give you 20.5 gear inches, so really not much change for the money you spend. Going to a 28 / 42 will give you 19.4 gear inches but I don't know if that is a significant difference.

If you want to go 1x for simplicity and weight savings, that's one thing. Otherwise the option of going 2x with a 40 or 42 may help short term. Then switch the front to 1x when your ready.

If you go 2x:
The 26 x 40 will get you 18.8 gear inches.
The 26 x 42 will get you 17.9 gear inches.

If you do decide to go to a 40 or 42 cassette, you only need the goatlink or a longer B screw. The goatlink works better in my opinion.
 
your profile says you ride a Bad Babit, is that a concept bike?, cause it doesn't show up on the Cdale site 😀

I was in your quandary and went with 1X36 instead. I'll probably go with a 32 chainring on the front. 70% of my trail riding is at CR as well and I too can't get up everything either. My problem really isn't the gearing but just plain need more time riding (I usually ride every other week). I'd hate to think I can clear all the trails at CR with a 42 rear but not at RV, what about the bigger hills up north? I've seen lots of converts over to 40/42, but the guys I know who've done it are riding much hillier places.

My suggestion is to wear out what you got and upgrade to XT or higher. You'll want to do that later anyway. Ride the granny gears lots and you'll get to the top eventually without the hike-a-bike. Let's get out for a ride sometime, we have a few guys here doing the "beginners" circuit as well. I'm off the trails till I get back from a trip, but 3-4 weeks from now I can pencil you in.... 🙄
 
fidodie said:
I ran the med cage on my 2x set up for awhile. Just never go big-big and it was fine. At 32x42 on the 26r it is crazy,pulling stumps out, low.
Click to expand...

wheelies for days

*edit* to be actually helpful:

I've found that my limit isn't so much my gearing, as my heart rate. Doing intervals 2-3x a week (start small) will greatly improve your cardiovascular limit. The bastard of lower gearing is, it might be easier to turn the pedals, but you go that much slower, prolonging your climb (HR). It may help you get to the top, but ultimately, training your body will do more, after a certain point.
 
These are only my thoughts as I was in your situation a few years ago. I'm a bigger guy; 6'3" and pushing 260 lbs....not a big bear belly, C Cup man boobs type of 260, but still 260lbs.

I was having trouble with many climbs as well and felt the 28 tooth granny gear was still too hard for me; note...I was pushing 280 lbs back then. One of the better pieces of advice I'd received was from a co-worker who raced who suggested, "Loose the granny gear and you WILL get stronger". It wasn't easy and it hurt a bit, but he was absolutely right. Before long, I was making the climbs on a 1 x 9 set up. That same year, I bought a Haro Mary SS and owned a SS ever since.

Today, my go to bike is a 32 x 19 SS. Point is...no need to spend money to make it easier in the short term. Saddle time and pushing yourself will make you stronger which should make you feel a sense of pride long term...it did with me.

Hope this helps in some way...
 
I'll say it again, around $200 gets you the XT 11 speed setup.

If you want to spend under that, swap in a 30t front ring. 30t front with 11-36 should be a good middle ground for you, and I think @UtahJoe said that 30/36 is very close to 32/42.
 
I would take the bike out on the road and do some road climbs. Do it twice a week for 1-2 months and I bet you will be able to clear most of those climbs at CR (cardio-wise) w/o any modification to your bike.

Once you get too low (i.e. 26x42) you may find that you can't keep enough forward momentum making you fight to keep the bike balanced and spin like a hamster to keep the forward momentum (and fight to keep the front end down) which will require more cardio which you don't seem to have at the moment, etc..
 
Last edited:
soundz said:
I would take the bike out on the road and do some road climbs. Do it twice a week for 1-2 months and I bet you will be able to clear most of those climbs at CR (cardio-wise) w/o any modification to your bike.

Once you get too low (i.e. 26x42) you may find that you can't keep enough forward momentum making you fight to keep the bike balanced and spin like a hamster to keep the forward momentum (and fight to keep the front end down) which will require more cardio which you don't seem to have at the moment, etc..
Click to expand...
I almost did a OTB while climbing over a rocky section. Lol
Think I was on 24x34 gearing.
 
Last edited:
soundz said:
I would take the bike out on the road and do some road climbs. Do it twice a week for 1-2 months and I bet you will be able to clear most of those climbs at CR (cardio-wise) w/o any modification to your bike.

Once you get too low (i.e. 26x42) you may find that you can't keep enough forward momentum making you fight to keep the bike balanced and spin like a hamster to keep the forward momentum (and fight to keep the front end down) which will require more cardio which you don't seem to have at the moment, etc..
Click to expand...
fitness is usually not my issue, it's somewhere around 70% lack of skill vs 30% lack of conditioning for me
most of the climbs I get jammed up on are at switchbacks and rooty sections
def need to ride more
 
soundz said:
...Once you get too low (i.e. 26x42) you may find that you can't keep enough forward momentum making you fight to keep the bike balanced and spin like a hamster to keep the forward momentum (and fight to keep the front end down) which will require more cardio which you don't seem to have at the moment, etc..
Click to expand...

No, I've had this gearing for nearly 2 years now and I'm very happy to have it available when I need it. Yes, training for climbing helps, but if you happen to be born with more anaerobic than aerobic ability (or at an age where that's becoming true) and still would like to be able to stay on the bike for long climbs, I can't recommend it enough. It can allow you to ascend more slowly to avoid exceeding your anaerobic threshold -- but you're nowhere near track standing. I find it much more enjoyable to stay on the bike when hill climbing as opposed to walking -- we're talking about biking, right?

The idea that you'll be toppling over because you're moving so slowly is frankly, ridiculous. You have to manage front-end lift on steep grades the way you would on any other bike, but you don't have to be Jeff Lenosky to succeed...I'm living proof of that!
 
if you don't mind spending the money, the Shimano XT 1x11 setup is a great deal. Take some weight off the bike, simplify your options, force yourself to get stronger. And if you're like me, getting new stuff makes you go out and ride more.

The climbs at CR aren't that steep or that long but the addition of the technical features make them a bitch. I would go to other parks with longer smoother climbs and work up your cardio. Ride them twice in a row if need be.

Another way to improve your climbing is to get out of the habit of catching your breath at the top, grab a gear or two and keep pushing after the climb, even if it's downhill, that way you extend your time in the cardio zone.
 
pearl said:
I'll say it again, around $200 gets you the XT 11 speed setup.

If you want to spend under that, swap in a 30t front ring. 30t front with 11-36 should be a good middle ground for you, and I think @UtahJoe said that 30/36 is very close to 32/42.
Click to expand...
I've got the upgrade bug today, is the $200 XT 11spd still around?
 
Nuts? Grow a pair and you'll be climbing just fine. Just kidding! Do what feels good and efficient for you, not everyone wants to stand and grind up hills.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom