Ibis Exie mini review.

This is my all around mtb. I still enjoy the nues and hoping it’s better for the long descents and relentlwss gnar over time. It still sprints quick and climbs well but probably a tad much for xc. But I’ll still do an xc or two with it.


You know it’s made for XC? Exie = X C. 🙂

Jenny Rissveds killed it all year in the UCI cup on an Exie. That extra 20 mm of travel in the front adds no real weight.
 
Havent checked mine yet, but I will.

I think the cushcore xc is the best one I have used, 2 full seasons on mine now and they are fine, but they arent light
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Your not setting your bike up correctly, or you have unrealistic expectations. I've been riding DW bikes for the last 12 years, and setup is key, hitting the sweet-spot in the sag is the most important thing, however its not so sensitive that an extra ounce of weight is going to collapse the house of cards. Manufacturer recommended sag is a starting point, but then its up to you to determine how you want the ride to feel. The kinematics are also different between different manufacturers and models within the same manufacturer. DW designs it based on what the manufacturer is looking for with the specific bike. The bob thing is a myth, all bikes bob somewhat, but much of it is also up to how you pedal. My ham-fisted pedaling-squares style makes every bike bob. If you're increasing preload to prevent bob, get ready for a shitty riding bike. And over-forking is fine. I've been running my over-forked Ripmo without even knowing it and the world hasn't ended.
Did you read my post? Yea, set up is key and you need different setups for as much as 8-10 lbs difference in rider kit…..camelback, one setup, water bottle = another setup…..had a big meal last night, yup, you need another setup. You want a bike that you have to check sag before each ride…. Get a DW LINK BIKE.
 
Not looking to hijack this thread, but are there any bikes that are great at climbing AND the setup is somewhat forgiving? I spoke with another rider at High Mountain who was on a Jamis Portal and he said that he doesn't check the setup that often.
 
You know it’s made for XC? Exie = X C. 🙂

Jenny Rissveds killed it all year in the UCI cup on an Exie. That extra 20 mm of travel in the front adds no real weight.
Yes, but xc has changed over the years. 67 HA ans 120 travel fork isn’t a typical xc setup. Yea, I know Scott, Giant and Rocky mountain XC bikes are all 120/130 now. Anyways, I think a true xc bike wouldn’t feel this slack and would have a snappier feeling. I like this bike because it eats up miles of gnar and you can bomb miles of descent.
 
Not looking to hijack this thread, but are there any bikes that are great at climbing AND the setup is somewhat forgiving? I spoke with another rider at High Mountain who was on a Jamis Portal and he said that he doesn't check the setup that often.
I checked my sag 3 x. Initial setup, after breakin and after I removed a token from the fork. That’s it. I checked my B tension twice too. Once on the stand and once while in the sag position. Only other change I made was removing the aluminum bar inserts as the wide bars gave some headshake on fast descents. I’ll never set the sag again.
 
Not looking to hijack this thread, but are there any bikes that are great at climbing AND the setup is somewhat forgiving? I spoke with another rider at High Mountain who was on a Jamis Portal and he said that he doesn't check the setup that often.
Do you mean XC specific or any category of MTB? Portal is squarely a trail bike, not an Xc model so it may be more forgiving in that area.

The short answer is absolutely there are. In a nutshell, the more advanced kinematic designs like VPP, DWLink, Switch infinity, and even some of the more well though out 4-bars from big players have 1 key advantage over older/simple single pivot designs: the anti-squat (pedaling efficiency), aka "climbing" capability, is built into the frame thus leaving the rear shock to take on more shock absorption duties, aka "descending". In the past, the simple single pivots were a not efficient thus leaving the shock to do double duty in both providing support (or resistance) for pedaling and provide suppleness for descending by piling on gobs of rock hard compression resistance and static pressure. Its a lot to ask of a single component and so you can see how each function is compromised when you have to be responsible for both, especially when those 2 functions are so very different. So when you decouple the shock from having to provide a mountain of anti squat and let the frame do the work, you can have the shock be a lot more supple overall. The bread-n-butter trail bike sector is filled with bikes with such efficient designs as they try to differentiate themselves yet provide the same levels of efficiency we've come to expect. The XC arena is different though. There are some more efficient current designs like the Exie and the Intense Sniper (VPP) but the Xc crowd is very weight conscious and is willing to run a simpler, less efficient frame for the weight savings and rely on lockouts for support.
 
Yes, but xc has changed over the years. 67 HA ans 120 travel fork isn’t a typical xc setup.

I think this is a subjective opinion, but when I watch World Cup XC, a 120 fork and slack HA is the direction a lot of the bikes are going.

The epic is 67.5
Scott spark 67.2
Trek is an old school 69
 
68.3 for the XC
The Trail is 67.x.

Seems the 100mm XC bike are steeper and the 120 are slacker. Probably cause they use the same frame and slap a bigger fork on lol. Except for the epic. Thats a 100mm with a slack HA.

Interesting - they slackened it. My 2020 trail is 68.5, the XC was 69.
 
Did you read my post? Yea, set up is key and you need different setups for as much as 8-10 lbs difference in rider kit…..camelback, one setup, water bottle = another setup…..had a big meal last night, yup, you need another setup. You want a bike that you have to check sag before each ride…. Get a DW LINK BIKE.

No better way to welcome myself back to this site than to get involved in this type of bike-related bullshit, how I've missed it. Have you read your own post? You were saying that going between a water bottle and and camel back requires a change in sag, now you're saying 8-10lbs. That 8-10lbs is roughly a gallon-gallon and a half of water, does the amount of water you bring on a ride fluctuate that much ride to ride? Also, since I'm a setup weenie I will agree that if you're adding 10lbs more than what you initially setup at, a slight (emphasize slight) adjustment to preload may be needed, and this goes for any bike, DW or not. I don't know about you, but I memorize my psi when I hit the ideal ride quality that I want, and maybe add a pound or 2 more or less depending on weight gain or terrain. I also adjust when the temperature has changed significantly from the last time I aired up my shock, because of the low air volumes used in a shock and that pesky Boyles Law. I've gained some weight over the course of this year, still use the psi that I set when I was a little lighter, and the bike still rides exactly how I want it to. I don't think that engineers design ride kinematics to be so sensitive that being off by a few psi is going to destroy the ride.
 
I think this is a subjective opinion, but when I watch World Cup XC, a 120 fork and slack HA is the direction a lot of the bikes are going.

The epic is 67.5
Scott spark 67.2
Trek is an old school 69
Exactly my point and they are changing the trails to suit. In reality Nino would win on any bike but this is the bike the want to sell…120 FR, shirt stem, wide wheels, slack n a droppa.
 
Not looking to hijack this thread, but are there any bikes that are great at climbing AND the setup is somewhat forgiving? I spoke with another rider at High Mountain who was on a Jamis Portal and he said that he doesn't check the setup that often.
So imo... There are bikes that go uphill FAST like my Scalpel... But they are fast so long as the terrain isn't too technical/steep/loose....then there are bikes like my bronson, or my tallboy that I can pedal up really steep/technical terrain, but don't look to set any speed records doing it. My 170mm firebird can climb anything I seem to throw at it, even being 35-36lbs....im super impressed with the DW Link....but just dont try to climb quickly with it.
 
Did you read my post? Yea, set up is key and you need different setups for as much as 8-10 lbs difference in rider kit…..camelback, one setup, water bottle = another setup…..had a big meal last night, yup, you need another setup. You want a bike that you have to check sag before each ride…. Get a DW LINK BIKE.
Never checked sag other than at setup on my DW link bike, and 4K miles later still rides like a dream, whether camelback with 3L,or one small water bottle. Overforked it too. Ok not necessarily over, but did increase travel from what came stock. Tire pressure much more important to ride quality than suspension tweaking all the time. Coming from FSR Horst link bikes since 1997, and I thought they were great (they were) but the DW just disappears back there, regardless of terrain or riding style, doing its job. Opinions are like assholes tho, you know we all got em and pretty much all of them smell like shit. Ride what you like.
 
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So imo... There are bikes that go uphill FAST like my Scalpel... But they are fast so long as the terrain isn't too technical/steep/loose....then there are bikes like my bronson, or my tallboy that I can pedal up really steep/technical terrain, but don't look to set any speed records doing it. My 170mm firebird can climb anything I seem to throw at it, even being 35-36lbs....im super impressed with the DW Link....but just dont try to climb quickly with it.
I did a 35 mile ride sunday on my exie. 5200k elevation. It climbs extremely well seated and about 90% as good as I would like while standing. It does not bob on steep tech and pedals through about anything.
 
No better way to welcome myself back to this site than to get involved in this type of bike-related bullshit, how I've missed it. Have you read your own post? You were saying that going between a water bottle and and camel back requires a change in sag, now you're saying 8-10lbs. That 8-10lbs is roughly a gallon-gallon and a half of water, does the amount of water you bring on a ride fluctuate that much ride to ride? Also, since I'm a setup weenie I will agree that if you're adding 10lbs more than what you initially setup at, a slight (emphasize slight) adjustment to preload may be needed, and this goes for any bike, DW or not. I don't know about you, but I memorize my psi when I hit the ideal ride quality that I want, and maybe add a pound or 2 more or less depending on weight gain or terrain. I also adjust when the temperature has changed significantly from the last time I aired up my shock, because of the low air volumes used in a shock and that pesky Boyles Law. I've gained some weight over the course of this year, still use the psi that I set when I was a little lighter, and the bike still rides exactly how I want it to. I don't think that engineers design ride kinematics to be so sensitive that being off by a few psi is going to destroy the ride.

No see since our weight can fluctuate by up to 5 lbs per day, you must weigh yourself on a precision scale right before every ride and then adjust the pressure in your tires, shock and fork accordingly. Have your formula ready to plug in the values. Oh and make sure you factor in ave temp of your ride and atmospheric pressure!
 
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