Less ghetto tubeless.

Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
After dicking around with a few other methods of setting up fat tubeless, I think I've finally come up with something that works without any hokieness.

I've set up a few wheels using the normal split-tube "ghetto tubeless". While it does seem to hold after fighting with it, screwing around with straps, and covering your friends with Stans, it just doesn't seem sturdy enough for me to run it on my own bike. I also found it interesting that no one I talked to at Frozen Fat was using this method either, I heard story after story of people pulling the tires off the rim.

Most were just straight up building up the channel in the rim using Gorilla tape and throwing a valve into it and that's it. I tried doing this and ended up using an entire roll of tape before I got the channel high enough to seal against the tire.

So I went with a hybrid version using the foam method and tape. Here's how it goes...

Put in the normal Surly rim strip. As an FYI, I run the next bigger strip in the narrower rim. As in this is a Clown Show strip in a Darryl. The Clown Shoe strip is 75mm and goes right up to the edge giving much better coverage of the holes. Anywhoo.

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This is some quasi dense 1/8" thick, 2" wide insulating poop for plumbing. It's also sticky on one side so it won't move around. It comes in like 15 foot rolls for like $5. 1 roll is enough to do one wheel. Starting at the seam I went around 2 times which brought the level of the channel almost to the bead height.

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Next I went around on each side with 2" wide Gorilla Tape the same way I would use Stans Yellow tape. I made sure to stay tight against the bead and keep the tape smooth. This step might take a time or 3 to get right.

Poke a hole through the tape and insulation to put the valve in. This a standard 44mm Stans valve.

Tire install is exactly like any other mountain bike tire. Put one side on, fill with Stans, put the other side on and fill with air. I got this to seat using a handpump, that's how good the fit is!!

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Zero Stans leakage, tire hasn't lost any air since I mounted it, even with a beat to hell Escalator. So try it out. If you don't want to try it, drop it off to me and I'll set it all up for you. I can drill your rims while it's here as well...

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-Jim.
 
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Nice neat work as always Jim.
Just curious, do u use the full half gallon of Stans in each of those big wheels?
 

This. I used 1/2 of one of the smaller bottles. I don't think you need that much but I'm running 180tpi tires that are pretty beat up. As a reference, the sidewall on the Escalator is about the same as the sidewall on a standard Racing Ralph. A 27tpi tire would take much less to seal.

-Jim.
 
Zero Stan's leakage, tire hasn't lost any air since I mounted it, even with a beat to hell Escalator. So try it out. If you don't want to try it, drop it off to me and I'll set it all up for you. I can drill your rims while it's here as well...

Up for drilling the big holes while you're at it? Shoot, I'd drop them off Monday for the whole shebang.😀
Thanks for the beta all the same. Fatbike Guru!
 
Yeah, no!! I think I'm limited to 1/2" (thankfully) 😉

-Jim.

Gaaaa! Poop. Kay.:cry:

Did you happen to weigh this setup vs. a tube and liner? What kind of pressures will you feel comfortable running?

I think a step bit would take friggin' forever if you're doing two wheels? Clean though.
 
Dumb question: if you have stock Holy Darryls do they use the same rim strips (running tubes, standard setup) as the non-holy? Or are they wider/stronger/different with holes?
Thanks.
 
Get a step bit Jim. Harbor freight!

I was wondering same thing. Do you think a step bit is a better option than a hole saw bit? I've heard that hole saw bits can cause a lot of heat on the rim when drilling, but figured a step bit might make matters worse? on the other had I've heard a step bit can cause less burrs around the holes. I'm planning on 1 3/8". What do you think?
 
So now we have the whole HGC crew running this set-up and it's tits. My front tire lost air @ Allaire yesterday while the Stan's was still finding it's way into all the nooks and crannies. Stopped to re-inflate and it's been at the same pressure since. The rear never lost any air, even with a 1/4 hole in the sidewall of the tire :getsome:

I made 2 small additions to the prep just to clean things up a little bit.

A) I covered the seam where the 2 thinner pieces of tape meet with a 4-inch wide strip. I'm just thinking farther down the road and getting a flat that I may peel that overlapping section taking the tire on/off.

B) I put a dab of tubular glue on the valve just under the rubber part. I do this on all non-tubeless rims that I convert as it helps seal better.

Bonus.

Here's the drilling in action.

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And fun with Duct tape after said drilling.

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We refined the system a tad on Chris' wheels also. We found a foam that was 1/4" so you only have to go around the rim one time. Super clean. Beads with a floor pump.

Also, 6 scoops of Stan's seems to do the trick.

-Jim.
 
Rims

But can u get clown shoes with BFLs to seat and seal?..........if so..u will become the ULTIMATE fat bike guru...bar none
 
I'm sure you can do it, but it will take so much tape and foam it will weigh more than the tube 😀

-Jim.
 
Curious to see how much sealant is absorbed into the casing in a week or so.

There is a lot of tire there.
 
I did the tubeless conversion described by Jim to my Necro Pug. All-in-all it worked out fine. Not too difficult to do, not expensive, materials were pretty easy to come by, etc. My only problem (minor) was some leakage around the valve of the 1st tire I did. The Stan's ultimately sealed it though, and I've got one ride under my belt as validation of the process. Note that I put 3 cups of Stan's into each tire (stock Nate & Larry). I'd recommend this to anyone who wants to go Fat tubeless. FYI - this shaved roughly one pound of total weight from the bike. I did not do this for weight savings. I prefer tubeless over tubed for many reasons. Thanks for the detailed info Jim!
 
Get a step bit Jim. Harbor freight!

I was wondering same thing. Do you think a step bit is a better option than a hole saw bit? I've heard that hole saw bits can cause a lot of heat on the rim when drilling, but figured a step bit might make matters worse? on the other had I've heard a step bit can cause less burrs around the holes. I'm planning on 1 3/8". What do you think?

Step bits are by far the best type of bit for this or any sheet metal type job. Hole saws are sloppy, leave huge burrs and not accurate at all, (they float around) 😉
 
three layer of tape at the bead and will not hold above 10 psi. any pressure on tire, I get massive leak from the bead area. This is with Husker Du and same rim.
 
add more layers of tape til it holds air tight. use soapy water on the bead too.
 
I did this on one tire so far and it seems like it is working. i had a little bit of air coming out of the bead, but it sealed up and the air seems to be holding. I will let you know how it works out tomorrow after I go riding.
 
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