Newer mountain bikes too big?

Slightly under 5'10... I am at the borderline of a M and a L.
My bikes are a L and they do feel slightly big when going thru technical parts but my back tells me another thing. Just gotta listen to my back... otherwise it would be an uncomfortable ride.
 
Dunno, my bikes are all large, they look gigantic next to my short body but feel way more comfortable than the large '90s bikes I had been riding before, to use a common catch phrase 'it feels more like I'm in the bike than over the bike'...believe it or not I had a lot less OTBs too. So that article doesn't really work for me, seems like it's fashionable every now and the bash a common trend. I just remember trying @Patrick 's fat bike when I was on the market for one as it was the recommended size by the customer support of the manufacturer (or reseller if you want to be more accurate) and it felt absolutely like two sizes too small. Went with the pro's suggestion ( @jimvreeland ) for both size and model and I've been happy ever after staring at it collecting dust in the garage! J/K. This is me on a recent rise…
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“..if you’re 6’4” bikes finally fit..”. Wrong.
They’re too big in “reach”. Wrong again.
I’m 6’3” and bought a 2020 Trek Fuel EX last year in XL. Came with a zero degree 50mm stem, only 30mm of headset spacers, 25mm riser bars and a straight seatpost. I was cramped and hunched over like Marty Feldman in Young Frankenstein. I had to get a 135mm 20 degree rise stem and a 35mm rise handlebar, plus a setback seat post in order to get properly positioned.
 
I'm 6'4" and ride a 2019 XL Fatboy that fits me well. I added a 38mm riser bar. It's a biga$$ bike but I can ride it all day long, for multiple days!

Now, I also have a 9zero7 Large as a spare family bike. With wide bars and a longer seat post it feels really good, so I'm adapting it to my harder-trail/Trials-type riding bike.

And crazy, I ride a 16" Banshee Scratch (that's a "large") frame set up SS. I'm totally comfortable even though it's a tiny frame, but again, I can ride it all day long AND drop the seatpost for the skate park.

So, I think all answers to this thread will be correct.
 
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TLDR
Love seeing these modern frames with a 100mm stem on them. Always an indication you didn’t get the right size.
 
I have posted previously that I buy into the Ride Logic stuff as I am getting older and I feel it has made my riding position very stable. I think bike manufacturers are all over the place when indicating M vs. L and even Ride Logic is measurements are certainly not 100%. For example, I determined the RAD measurement and I was dead-on with a 50mm stem. Got on 2 ladders and the 50mm was too long (elbows were bent bringing the bar to my hips) dropped to a 35mm stem all good. I think it is all relative- for me RAD works because I don’t feel cramped in the saddle (which is where I am 90% of the time) and I feel I can achieve the full row position. I think individuals need to find what works best for them. I do feel the statement of you bought the wrong bike is overkill and will probably be met with defensive attitudes versus open minds- especially because RAD is simply one way to approach bike fit.
 
I'm currently riding a large Pivot Switchblade, but got to try the Pivot Firebird at the festival today. The bike was a medium, and it fit me perfectly, although at 6' I would be in a large as per Pivot's size chart. My Christmas list just got a little bigger....
 
Is the rule of thumb around 2 to 3" of clearance for stand over height still valid? If yes, the bikes are too big for me who is 5' 6" with inseam of 28", even the small 27.5 specs have stand over height listed as 28+" (Giant, Nukeproof, Pivot are the ones that I recently looked at). Finding XS bikes at reasonable cost in the current market is tough.
 
dvaidya said:
Is the rule of thumb around 2 to 3" of clearance for stand over height still valid? If yes, the bikes are too big for me who is 5' 6" with inseam of 28", even the small 27.5 specs have stand over height listed as 28+" (Giant, Nukeproof, Pivot are the ones that I recently looked at). Finding XS bikes at reasonable cost in the current market is tough.
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I would not look at stand over height at all in terms of sizing. Reach is the primary thing to focus on in terms of how the bike fits your body.
 
A a corollary, i like what Guerilla Gravity, Specialized and some others are doing with labeling sizes (using unitless sequential values) rather than the archaic and no longer relevant seat tube sizing or difficult to correlate between brands SML siziing. Buy the bike with the appropriate amount of dimensional fortitude that fits your desired reach and other significant geo numbers, not based on what size schwinn you rode in 70's.
 
JonF said:
A a corollary, i like what Guerilla Gravity, Specialized and some others are doing with labeling sizes (using unitless sequential values) rather than the archaic and no longer relevant seat tube sizing or difficult to correlate between brands SML siziing. Buy the bike with the appropriate amount of dimensional fortitude that fits your desired reach and other significant geo numbers, not based on what size schwinn you rode in 70's.
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I think that method of sizing is "pie in the sky" wishful thinking. If everyone read the geo charts and checked their reaches and STA in comparison to their professional bike fit numbers, it would be incredible for everyone involved. Everyone would be on the right bike and war would not exist.

Every time I see a Spesh on FB Marketplace it ends up same thing..."What's S4?" "Large". It doesn't take much to deduce Size 1=Small, 2= Medium etc.

Great theory, don't think it really changes much IMO.
 
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