POLL: How long do you wait before replacing cables on your road bike?

How long do you wait before replacing cables on your road bike?


  • Total voters
    30

jackx

Well-Known Member
Do you wait until they break, or are they replaced proactively before breaking/ stranding you.

Do you install new housing at the same time or leave them longer, perhaps housing every other time.

Is the timing it idfferent for shift vs. brake cables?

Perhaps this is mileage-based for road bikes and seasonally for MTB or CX bikes.
 
I don't have a set time. When I work on the bike every 6 months or so, I'll pop the ferrule out of the shifter/brake and inspect the part of the cable that winds inside the lever. Any signs of excessive shininess or flat spots, and it gets replaced. Ditto if there is fraying anywhere near a cable pinch.
 
I don't have a set time. When I work on the bike every 6 months or so, I'll pop the ferrule out of the shifter/brake and inspect the part of the cable that winds inside the lever. Any signs of excessive shininess or flat spots, and it gets replaced. Ditto if there is fraying anywhere near a cable pinch.

That's definitely a proactive, preventative approach. I will definitely check all the other cables for wear including the heads of the cables inside the levers. My front derailleur cable isn't used nearly as much as my rear derailleur so I anticipate little wear on that one.
 
Related to this do LBSs sell brake cable? I'm trying to learn some basic wrenching skills on my niterider and made a mess of the front brakes - replacing the avid shorty 6s - threading the cable into that Y shaped thing was a pita and the cable kept unraveling.
 
Shift by cable? What about those of us with Di2? Never worry about shift cables again.

If a bike shop doesn't sell some type of generic replacement cable and housing, walk out.

I have enough to remember when I charged the batteries in my both my lights and I don't want to miss a ride because of a dead Di2 battery pack.

I haven't tried Di2, so I don't know what I am missing.

In my experience, LBS sell individual stainless steel cables (w/o housing) for about $3-4. Teflon-coated for $6+.
 
Most frequently is when I rotate parts and the cable is too short, I've got a shit load of cables btwn 40 and 65 inches. Used my last 70+ shifter cable last week
 
On the CX bike they get get replaced when the shifting feels like death which is basically every season, twice a season.

The mountain bike is usually when the cable end loses the ferrule and the cable frays itself into oblivion.

I would like to re-cable the road bike but if that means getting a cable, and if I were to do that I would want to redo the housing too. LA-ZY
 
I replace the tape and cables once a year whether they need it or not. Gives me a new bike at least once a year. I have seen photos of rotted handlebars under tape and I just try to be proactive.
 
I replace the tape and cables once a year whether they need it or not. Gives me a new bike at least once a year. I have seen photos of rotted handlebars under tape and I just try to be proactive.

Rotted handlebars?? Were they steel that rusted and not aluminum alloy?
 
I honestly don't remember... I think I've replaced the cables and housings on my Colnago (Campy) a couple of times over the years... usually whenever I replace the bar tape. Right now, the cassette and chain really need to be replaced, but I haven't decided if I'm going to stay with 8 spd (original Ergo-power from 1992) or finally upgrade to 10 or 11 spd.
 
Rotted handlebars?? Were they steel that rusted and not aluminum alloy?
This is my second time using this photo this week but it's relevant. Aluminum doesn't 'rust' like steel but it does oxidize. Pretty much everything oxidizes. Sweat is super corrosive with all of the salts. When you sweat into your bar tape it sits and soaks and eats everything.

Check your bars, stem and steerer periodically, especially if you sit on the trainer all winter @MadisonDan

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