Post a picture of your next bike part or mtb gear on order!

Ian F said:
Anyone who knows me knows I love tools. It doesn't take a lot of convincing for me to buy a tool, no matter how specialized it is or how often I might use it. Hell, I have a Park CRP-2. Which is nothing compared to some of the specialized tools I have for working on cars.

Last weekend, a friend asked me to swap the hub body on her I9 Torch hub. An operation I've done a few times in the past, although not recently. Step one: remove the axle cap. Should just pull off... "Hmm... WTF? This MFer is on there...." So off to the Rectangle of Knowledge I go.... So it seems if the cap has never been removed before, it can really be a task to get off. Does Park make a tool for this? Of course they do... clickety clickety... a slight dent into my Discover cash-back balance... and one is arriving Sunday:

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I could never afford i9 hubs, but on Hope hubs I slip the tip of the through-axle and push sideways...
 
Looking to smooth things out a bit.


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serviceguy said:
L

I’ve seen those and off corse I thought I needed them…but, I couldn’t figure out what problem they solved, so I left them alone. I’ve bent or scratched a couple of levers, but never had them pulled forward, is it a thing?
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These are available, the the Shimano ones may be back ordered.

Plus…. Orange.
 
Ian F said:
Won't work on the driver end cap on a Torch. There's not enough of a lip to push on.
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The tool arrived today and worked as advertised. The cap was still a SOB to get off. Not much to say otherwise, once the cap is off, the hub body slides off. Install the new one. Clean up the cap. New grease on the o-ring and push back on. Job done. Frankie made it easy on me by getting a replacement hub body that already had the paws and springs installed. You can save some money by buying a bare driver and swapping over the paws and springs from your existing driver.
 
Ian F said:
The tool arrived today and worked as advertised. The cap was still a SOB to get off. Not much to say otherwise, once the cap is off, the hub body slides off. Install the new one. Clean up the cap. New grease on the o-ring and push back on. Job done. Frankie made it easy on me by getting a replacement hub body that already had the paws and springs installed. You can save some money by buying a bare driver and swapping over the paws and springs from your existing driver.
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Those tiny PIA springs love to eject doe. 😱
 
JDurk said:
Even with the short stem, it's probably going to be more like RAD+, which is ok. I'm using this bike more as an all day ride and endurance bike.
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I don't do any of that silly math, but I do measure my bikes I like (add grips-to-rear-axle and stem-to-rear-axle measurements), then translate this to the new frame when selecting parts. I'm also a BIG fan of Riser-Bars...
 
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