Stripped Pivot Bolt Head (on a Pivot)
- Thread starter mbruno
- Start date
sundaydoug
Well-Known Member
Can't tell from the pic, but I'm assuming the thread portion of the bolt is still threaded into the pin. With the head removed can you just tap the whole pin out using a small hex wrench and a mallet?
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Something like this, $12 at Home Depot. And proceed very carefully...
I figured. But once you have to resort to the Backout, yer pretty fucked.
It's a smooth bolt that's threaded on the opposite side of the rocker.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately the part of the bolt head that sticks out is tapered, you wouldn't be able to get a grip on it and turn it. Sorry.
Similar thing happened to me with an aluminum suspension screw. I'd start with the @serviceguy method if you do have an EZ-out set.
What I did:
On the opposite side of the bolt from the head, drill and tap for an M5 or so cap screw. It's possible while drilling/tapping you'll loosen the bolt. 5% chance.
After the hole is tapped, when you put in a steel cap screw and tighten it, it should unscrew the old bolt so you can get it out.
If you can carefully remove the bolt head it'll go even easier as you'll have less friction when starting.
What I did:
On the opposite side of the bolt from the head, drill and tap for an M5 or so cap screw. It's possible while drilling/tapping you'll loosen the bolt. 5% chance.
After the hole is tapped, when you put in a steel cap screw and tighten it, it should unscrew the old bolt so you can get it out.
If you can carefully remove the bolt head it'll go even easier as you'll have less friction when starting.
Aside from the ideas here you can cut the bolt either side of the shock; Dremel cut-off wheel should work. Also not fun but there's access at least.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Best method:
Use the striped socket to drill a pilot hole 4x10mm (assuming this is an 8mm screw, if not, drill an appropriate hole that leaves ~2mm of wall). Step up to a bit large enough to clear the head of the screw, and remove it.
With no tension being provided by the head, you should be able to use an easy out in the prepared pilot hole to turn the screw out.
Use the striped socket to drill a pilot hole 4x10mm (assuming this is an 8mm screw, if not, drill an appropriate hole that leaves ~2mm of wall). Step up to a bit large enough to clear the head of the screw, and remove it.
With no tension being provided by the head, you should be able to use an easy out in the prepared pilot hole to turn the screw out.
Turbotrix
Well-Known Member
T
There's not too much to the head of this particular bolt. Knock it off with a drill and you should be able to remove the rest pretty easy. I doubt the threads are what's locking things up. If you're able to drill the head off, use a pick to see if the remainder of the bolt is loose. You may be able to back it out with a little luck.
I don't have the best luck with easy out's, especially when you need to drill the pilot hole on an uneven surface. If it were my headache here, I'd drill out the head to release the tension on the bolt/pivot and then work on the other side. I'd drill the threaded end of the bolt with a small bit. The force of the bit turning clockwise might just be enough to walk the bolt out the other side.
Good luck!
Good advice here.
There's not too much to the head of this particular bolt. Knock it off with a drill and you should be able to remove the rest pretty easy. I doubt the threads are what's locking things up. If you're able to drill the head off, use a pick to see if the remainder of the bolt is loose. You may be able to back it out with a little luck.
I don't have the best luck with easy out's, especially when you need to drill the pilot hole on an uneven surface. If it were my headache here, I'd drill out the head to release the tension on the bolt/pivot and then work on the other side. I'd drill the threaded end of the bolt with a small bit. The force of the bit turning clockwise might just be enough to walk the bolt out the other side.
Good luck!
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Johnny Utah
Well-Known Member
This is gold…..and I concur. A lot of Jeep stuff I work on uses Allen Bolts and they always cease. Banging a torx bit in usually does the trick - especially if you have the socket type. If that does not work out I second east out. If you can anyway get some PB blaster in where the threads are then do so and let it sit for a bit.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Also, sometimes just hitting the screw a few times with a hammer may help brake the bond between the threads.
Soundguy
#SenditGuy
This is the way. I stripped a linkage bolt on my Evil frame like 2 days after buying it (used). Old torque wrench saved my life. It actually hammered in pretty easy which makes me question why these bolts are made from butter to begin with….
02camaro
Well-Known Member
evils are the worst at that.... every damn bolt on them are made of tin.
never had ez outs work on anything, they are a money grab and are a waste. hammer a torx in, if that doesnt work drill out the other end
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
??? I literally use easy outs at least a couple of times a week. Preparation is everything, as is understanding that the kind of shit that the bolt head breaks off is the kind of shit that breaks easy outs.