Stripped Pivot Bolt Head (on a Pivot)

Karate Monkey said:
??? I literally use easy outs at least a couple of times a week. Preparation is everything, as is understanding that the kind of shit that the bolt head breaks off is the kind of shit that breaks easy outs.
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i have broken more ez outs in the stuck bolt than successful extractions. granted this is in automotive applications but still left such a bad taste in my mouth that i dont buy them anymore.
 
Karate Monkey said:
??? I literally use easy outs at least a couple of times a week. Preparation is everything, as is understanding that the kind of shit that the bolt head breaks off is the kind of shit that breaks easy outs.
Click to expand...
I concur, I recently restore/modified several cars from the 80’s/early 90’s that sat for a long time. Prior to doing so easy outs scared the poop out of me, now I have a drawer in my tool box dedicated to them. Very solid tool. I also agree prep is important.
 
02camaro said:
i have broken more ez outs in the stuck bolt than successful extractions. granted this is in automotive applications but still left such a bad taste in my mouth that i dont buy them anymore.
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I would think that most cases that are issues on cars (header bolts, brake bolts, wheel bolts, muffler bolts) are areas that are brutal for extraction, because the stub has all but welded to the substrate from corrosion that was accelerated by 1) salt, 2) heat, 3) both.

I'm not trying to convert you, but there are a bunch of things you can do to up your success rates:

-Apply penetrant. Either pay for Kroil, or use 50/50 ATF/Acetone, shaken immediately before application. Freeze-Off works, too, situationally. Apply any liberally, then tap around the area with a light hammer to help draw the penetrant in. Let it sit as long as you can, then apply more.

-Invest in a set of high-quality tap wrenches (the "cheap" sliding square kind). The usual suspect with easy-outs is that they are getting forced on an angle...and being hardened drill stock, they are going to snap if they're getting off-axis force thrown through them.

-Get a set of drill guides for various-sized broken fasteners, or work on the geometric principal for locating center points https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle . Use a carbide scribe to find the center, wallow it, and then whack that spot with your centerpunch. As above, you get the most success from making sure the easy-out isn't being forced off center (which includes removing the screw). If you need to, use a carbide burr/diamond scribe to flatten the top of the stub enough to get a good read on the center point.

Now, most of the stuff I deal with is small fasteners (which have their own unique problems, too), but I've found that easy-outs catch quite a bit of hate for something that isn't their fault [or maybe, just maybe, it's the colloquial name that causes so much frustration].

Then, too, sometimes they just straight fail, and you need to resort to destructive removal/pay for EDM if it's possible/the part is worth it.
 
Karate Monkey said:
I would think that most cases that are issues on cars (header bolts, brake bolts, wheel bolts, muffler bolts) are areas that are brutal for extraction, because the stub has all but welded to the substrate from corrosion that was accelerated by 1) salt, 2) heat, 3) both.

I'm not trying to convert you, but there are a bunch of things you can do to up your success rates:

-Apply penetrant. Either pay for Kroil, or use 50/50 ATF/Acetone, shaken immediately before application. Freeze-Off works, too, situationally. Apply any liberally, then tap around the area with a light hammer to help draw the penetrant in. Let it sit as long as you can, then apply more.

-Invest in a set of high-quality tap wrenches (the "cheap" sliding square kind). The usual suspect with easy-outs is that they are getting forced on an angle...and being hardened drill stock, they are going to snap if they're getting off-axis force thrown through them.

-Get a set of drill guides for various-sized broken fasteners, or work on the geometric principal for locating center points https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle . Use a carbide scribe to find the center, wallow it, and then whack that spot with your centerpunch. As above, you get the most success from making sure the easy-out isn't being forced off center (which includes removing the screw). If you need to, use a carbide burr/diamond scribe to flatten the top of the stub enough to get a good read on the center point.

Now, most of the stuff I deal with is small fasteners (which have their own unique problems, too), but I've found that easy-outs catch quite a bit of hate for something that isn't their fault [or maybe, just maybe, it's the colloquial name that causes so much frustration].

Then, too, sometimes they just straight fail, and you need to resort to destructive removal/pay for EDM if it's possible/the part is worth it.
Click to expand...
i skip right to oxy torch if it feels tight, if it breaks weld a nut on it, works every time. dont have the patience to faff around with other methods. unfortunately those are not viable options for bikes. the torx method has work 99% of the time on bikes ive seen. only ever had to drill once, and that was my own idiot doing when i realized i used ft/lbs not nm when torqueing a pivot bolt.
 
Karate Monkey said:
I would think that most cases that are issues on cars (header bolts, brake bolts, wheel bolts, muffler bolts) are areas that are brutal for extraction, because the stub has all but welded to the substrate from corrosion that was accelerated by 1) salt, 2) heat, 3) both.

I'm not trying to convert you, but there are a bunch of things you can do to up your success rates:

-Apply penetrant. Either pay for Kroil, or use 50/50 ATF/Acetone, shaken immediately before application. Freeze-Off works, too, situationally. Apply any liberally, then tap around the area with a light hammer to help draw the penetrant in. Let it sit as long as you can, then apply more.

-Invest in a set of high-quality tap wrenches (the "cheap" sliding square kind). The usual suspect with easy-outs is that they are getting forced on an angle...and being hardened drill stock, they are going to snap if they're getting off-axis force thrown through them.

-Get a set of drill guides for various-sized broken fasteners, or work on the geometric principal for locating center points https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle . Use a carbide scribe to find the center, wallow it, and then whack that spot with your centerpunch. As above, you get the most success from making sure the easy-out isn't being forced off center (which includes removing the screw). If you need to, use a carbide burr/diamond scribe to flatten the top of the stub enough to get a good read on the center point.

Now, most of the stuff I deal with is small fasteners (which have their own unique problems, too), but I've found that easy-outs catch quite a bit of hate for something that isn't their fault [or maybe, just maybe, it's the colloquial name that causes so much frustration].

Then, too, sometimes they just straight fail, and you need to resort to destructive removal/pay for EDM if it's possible/the part is worth it.
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What are you a Machinist or something?
 
Patrick said:
Is it out yet?
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1665025007122.png
 
Not out yet. The backout didn't bite into the hole I drilled, just kept grinding inside the hole (TWSS). Trying something else.
 
mbruno said:
Not out yet. The backout didn't bite into the hole I drilled, just kept grinding inside the hole (TWSS). Trying something else.
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I think that you should still be able to try the Torx trick if you have the right size Torx bit.
 
GSTim said:
I think that you should still be able to try the Torx trick if you have the right size Torx bit.
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Next stop for sure, I don't have anything bigger than a T30, and it's on a rubber T-handle so that ain't going to work. I tried sharpening up a flat head bit, hammering it in there and hitting it with the impact driver (I know, I know). That didn't work.

I think I'm ultimately going to have to drill this SOB out, which I know is dicey. I feel like worst case, I eff up the eyelet bushing and the rocker arm.
 
Yes!!!! Used a stepped bit to get rid of the head, then the sharpened flat head in the impact driver. I nicked the rocker arm trying to shock the bolt with a small punch, applying force tangentially to try to get it to back out.

1665085544118.png
 
mbruno said:
Next stop for sure, I don't have anything bigger than a T30, and it's on a rubber T-handle so that ain't going to work. I tried sharpening up a flat head bit, hammering it in there and hitting it with the impact driver (I know, I know). That didn't work.

I think I'm ultimately going to have to drill this SOB out, which I know is dicey. I feel like worst case, I eff up the eyelet bushing and the rocker arm.
Click to expand...
It's a blind hole?
 
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