The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
I wish. Without the power there is hardly any resistance.
I’ll try to install that plug you posted and make it a more secure salvage than my duct it and Fuck it.
I thought people just bring a small battery pack or 12V inverter for their car when using a smart trainer?
They don't use that much power. It's basically radio & power/speed electronics when you're not changing resistance.
If you have battery powered drills you can often find an inverter for those for like $50
zmartene
Well-Known Member
I have one of these and it works great in general - can't comment on specifics with a trainer
Ryobi power source
I have an inverter. I would try but I really just like rollers to bring to races. Much easier to get and off.
Btw, new trainer will be here tomorrow so…pretty good service from Wahoo.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
He may not even need that...how many volts is the DC output of the original power supply? Maybe you can just add a regulator if it's already 12V... Also, I would try and open the unit to replace the 'decommisioned' cord...
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iman29
Well-Known Member
I’ve got to get one of my old craftsman ones replaced too. (20+ years old)
I had a guy come give me an estimate to install he told me the craftsman ones are still good and to buy the belt drive 1/2 hp one since it’s below the bedrooms.
I’ve decided when im ready tho to pay him the $200 install since it’s not something I want to risk messing up.
honestly, if youv got a free hour or two, can read, and turn a wrench, you wont likely mess it up. that said if $200 installs two openers, thats not too bad
Mahnken
Well-Known Member
Probably the most expensive option, but if you have jackshafts for your garage doors, I'd start replacing them with side mount openers. They are so much nicer. Easy install too. And you can remove all that crap hanging from the ceiling.
LiftMaster Elite Series 8500W Jackshaft Garage Door Operator, WiFi https://a.co/d/e9d2e31
and more clearance for the lift!
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm considering one for the bay with the 16ft ceiling. Though we've decided to move in about 4 years so I don't see adding a lift in this house.
Thoughts on belt vs screw drive openers? Done with noisy chain drives
iman29
Well-Known Member
yeah I mean I am pretty handy and Youtube installer certified ;-)
I keep waffling back and forth to do it myself since there is an opener already installed there and my 21 year old middle son even said jeez you fix all this other stuff just do it yourself and save $200.
on the other hand he said for the same $200 he would also look at the other door opener and tune it up/adjust the door etc... its newer and doesnt need to be replaced just some fine tuning beyond me just lubing the pulleys and rollers.
the hardest thing is hanging the head. since the brackets are already there, should be easy-peasy.
@shrpshtr325 Is right that it's easy, and it's probably why they're only charging you $200. For those guys they can do it pretty quickly and the fact that you already have a garage opener makes it even quicker in regards to installing as the brackets are already there, etc. It's not like they're opening the box and looking through the directions, they've done it so many times they just start installing and will have all the tools and extra pieces if they think they would be necessary.
Years ago at my parent's house they had two garage doors installed. Oddly enough Home Depot was the cheapest option. I had them install the doors and I would 100% pay others to install garage doors after watching the install. I did the openers myself including brackets and it was pretty easy.
I'd do it myself personally purely because I'm anal and I'd rather it was done perfectly than OK. It's nearly impossible to screw up. Do it yourself and buy yourself something nice for the $200.
Mahnken
Well-Known Member
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Back in May last year, I had a chimney company out to fix my leaking chimney. I was able to hear water dripping on the top of the firebox, and on harder rains the water would drip down the front glass of the fireplace box. It's a gas fireplace. They found the crown leaking, probably where the flue comes out cause the rest looked good, and sealed it with this stuff:
US Fireplace Products Crown Safe - 1 Gallon - Brushable Chimney Crown Repair - Super Adhesion, Clear Finish, Eliminates Roof & Chimney Crown Leaks https://a.co/d/gzUc9lt
But after the first time I used the fireplace during the winter, I started getting the water in again whenever it would rain. I looked up the crown safe stuff and saw that it was good up until 130 degrees. Figured maybe the flue gets hotter than that and it screwed up the seal, if that's where it's getting through. So I called them back, and they couldn't get it to leak this time with a hose test (dude really didn't spray much water cause his hands were too cold). So, in case my theory was right, they put a high temp sealant around the flue. And if it still leaked, they'd send a roofer to look for other areas that could be leaking. But he sent the apprentice guy up to do it, so I had doubts it would work, even if that's where the water is coming from. It didn't work, still getting a good amount of water dripping down.
So instead of calling them back right away, I wanted to see if I could cover the crown completely before the next round of rain to prove the crown was still leaking, and not the roof/flashing/whatever. So I borrowed a ladder.
Here's the work they did
Terrible attempt with the high temp caulk around the flue, as suspected.
So I covered it all up with a grill cover, strapped it down, and cut enough off the bottom to leave all the flashing exposed (which also looks pretty bad, but it was just done by a roofer when we moved in on the sellers dime).
Two days of rain last week, no water in the fireplace. Raining all day today, and the top of the firebox is getting some water, but nowhere near as much as it would usually get without the cover.
So I went into the attic to see if I can see anything. And there's water getting through the flashing for sure. Here's the corner of the chimney where it goes through the roof. Definitely wet.
But is that where the water inside the chimney is coming from as well? Is the tarp just shielding enough water from hitting the top of the flashing so there isn't a lot getting through? I called the roofers that did the flashing a year or two ago and they're going to come out later in the week after the rain clears up. I have a feeling I'm gonna need a cricket behind the chimney the way it should've been done when they built the house. Then I'll have to wait and see if the crown leaks after that. I'm really beginning to hate this chimney.
Back in May last year, I had a chimney company out to fix my leaking chimney. I was able to hear water dripping on the top of the firebox, and on harder rains the water would drip down the front glass of the fireplace box. It's a gas fireplace. They found the crown leaking, probably where the flue comes out cause the rest looked good, and sealed it with this stuff:
US Fireplace Products Crown Safe - 1 Gallon - Brushable Chimney Crown Repair - Super Adhesion, Clear Finish, Eliminates Roof & Chimney Crown Leaks https://a.co/d/gzUc9lt
But after the first time I used the fireplace during the winter, I started getting the water in again whenever it would rain. I looked up the crown safe stuff and saw that it was good up until 130 degrees. Figured maybe the flue gets hotter than that and it screwed up the seal, if that's where it's getting through. So I called them back, and they couldn't get it to leak this time with a hose test (dude really didn't spray much water cause his hands were too cold). So, in case my theory was right, they put a high temp sealant around the flue. And if it still leaked, they'd send a roofer to look for other areas that could be leaking. But he sent the apprentice guy up to do it, so I had doubts it would work, even if that's where the water is coming from. It didn't work, still getting a good amount of water dripping down.
So instead of calling them back right away, I wanted to see if I could cover the crown completely before the next round of rain to prove the crown was still leaking, and not the roof/flashing/whatever. So I borrowed a ladder.
Here's the work they did
Terrible attempt with the high temp caulk around the flue, as suspected.
So I covered it all up with a grill cover, strapped it down, and cut enough off the bottom to leave all the flashing exposed (which also looks pretty bad, but it was just done by a roofer when we moved in on the sellers dime).
Two days of rain last week, no water in the fireplace. Raining all day today, and the top of the firebox is getting some water, but nowhere near as much as it would usually get without the cover.
So I went into the attic to see if I can see anything. And there's water getting through the flashing for sure. Here's the corner of the chimney where it goes through the roof. Definitely wet.
But is that where the water inside the chimney is coming from as well? Is the tarp just shielding enough water from hitting the top of the flashing so there isn't a lot getting through? I called the roofers that did the flashing a year or two ago and they're going to come out later in the week after the rain clears up. I have a feeling I'm gonna need a cricket behind the chimney the way it should've been done when they built the house. Then I'll have to wait and see if the crown leaks after that. I'm really beginning to hate this chimney.
What am I doing wrong?
Caulking the bathroom tub: The spacing between the tub and the tile is uneven and pretty large in one spot. I've removed old caulk and cleaned the area. Let it sit overnight to make sure everything is dry. Clean again. Put backing rod in. Re-caulked. Let it sit for 24 hours with a tub full of water for a little extra weight while the caulk dries. Let the water out and let it sit for another day before actually using it... And it still seems to be coming apart again. WTF?
How big is this gap if you needed backer rod for a tub? You’d hope it’s not sagging with water so filling it shouldn’t make a difference. Stretchier caulk or quality silicone may be the way ti delay remodel. Why isn’t Steve retiling the bathroom yet? Or adding support under the tub? Pics.
Is support under the tub an option?
The problem with the bathroom is it wasn't done that long ago. Definitely not our style but it's to new to rip out.
Plus, Lisa needs braces.