The DIY thread - DIYourself

Is there a setting to switch off the white light on the front of the door? Mine has gone off a few days ago, the boss is not sure if she touched something...everything seems to be working OK otherwise. I thought I would ask on the Bosch Dishwasher Support Forum...
Not sure what you referring to I have the model with all the controls on top not on front so you don’t see any lights except the red one that hits the floor when it’s on.
 
Is there a setting to switch off the white light on the front of the door? Mine has gone off a few days ago, the boss is not sure if she touched something...everything seems to be working OK otherwise. I thought I would ask on the Bosch Dishwasher Support Forum...
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I was thinking you jinxed me.
@MrsManic ran it earlier for the first time, came to find this white light on.

While I was looking it up, the thing beeped and the light went off.
Guessing it was finishing a drying cycle?

Edit:
And that light is called out in the manual, but even the engineers don’t know what it does, so they skipped it in the descriptions.
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I was thinking you jinxed me.
@MrsManic ran it earlier for the first time, came to find this white light on.

While I was looking it up, the thing beeped and the light went off.
Guessing it was finishing a drying cycle?

Edit:
And that light is called out in the manual, but even the engineers don’t know what it does, so they skipped it in the descriptions.
View attachment 250724
Yep, that's the light and that's the missing/mistery description. I hear that while the actual dishwasher is German, the manuals are outsourced to Italy...
P.S. I think it's called infolight and if not working it needs to be replaced...FML
 
View attachment 250720
I was thinking you jinxed me.
@MrsManic ran it earlier for the first time, came to find this white light on.

While I was looking it up, the thing beeped and the light went off.
Guessing it was finishing a drying cycle?

Edit:
And that light is called out in the manual, but even the engineers don’t know what it does, so they skipped it in the descriptions.
View attachment 250724

engineers dont write the manuals, we just provide information to the logistics people who write them. They do need to ask for details sometimes tho, looks like they dropped the ball.
 
engineers dont write the manuals, we just provide information to the logistics people who write them. They do need to ask for details sometimes tho, looks like they dropped the ball.
Sounds like something an engineer would say...

Whenever I am using an instruction manual, I am always reminded of this passage from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

tl/dr: the guy who wrote the instruction manual is likely a bonehead

"But Chris, meanwhile, takes the instructions and folds them around in a way I hadn't thought of so that the illustration sits there right
next to the text. I double-take this, then triple-take it and feel like a movie cartoon character who has just walked beyond the edge of a
cliff but hasn't fallen yet because he hasn’t realized his predicament. I nod, and there’s silence, and then I realize my predicament, then
a long laughter as I pound Chris on the top of the head all the way down to the bottom of the canyon. When the laughter subsides, I
say, "Well, anyway — " but the laughter starts all over again.

"What I wanted to say," I finally get in, "is that I've a set of instructions at home which open up great realms for the improvement of
technical writing. They begin, 'Assembly of Japanese bicycle require great peace of mind.’ "

This produces more laughter, but Sylvia and Gennie and the sculptor give sharp looks of recognition.

"That’s a good instruction," the sculptor says. Gennie nods too.

"That’s kind of why I saved it," I say. "At first I laughed because of memories of bicycles I'd put together and, of course, the
unintended slur on Japanese manufacture. But there's a lot of wisdom in that statement."

John looks at me apprehensively. I look at him with equal apprehension. We both laugh. He says, "The professor will now expound."
"Peace of mind isn't at all superficial, really," I expound. "It’s the whole thing. That which produces it is good maintenance; that which


disturbs it is poor maintenance. What we call workability of the machine is just an objectification of this peace of mind. The ultimate
test’s always your own serenity. If you don't have this when you start and maintain it while you're working you're likely to build your
personal problems right into the machine itself."


They just look at me, thinking about this.


"It's an unconventional concept," I say, "but conventional reason bears it out. The material object of observation, the bicycle or
rotisserie, can’t be right or wrong. Molecules are molecules. They don't have any ethical codes to follow except those people give
them. The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn’t any other test. If the machine produces tranquillity it’s right. If
it disturbs you it’s wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed. The test of the machine’s always your own mind. There
isn't any other test."


DeWeese asks, "What if the machine is wrong and I feel peaceful about it?"


Laughter.


I reply, "That's self-contradictory. If you really don't care you aren't going to know it’s wrong. The thought’ll never occur to you. The
act of pronouncing it wrong's a form of caring."


I add, "What’s more common is that you feel unpeaceful even if it’s right, and I think that’s the actual case here. In this case, if you're
worried, it isn't right. That means it isn’t checked out thoroughly enough. In any industrial situation a machine that isn't checked out is
a ‘down’ machine and can't be used even though it may work perfectly. Your worry about the rotisserie is the same thing. You haven’t
completed the ultimate requirement of achieving peace of mind, because you feel these instructions were too complicated and you may
not have understood them correctly."


DeWeese asks, "Well, how would you change them so I would get this peace of mind?"


"That would require a lot more study than I’ve just given them now. The whole thing goes very deep. These rotisserie instructions
begin and end exclusively with the machine. But the kind of approach I’m thinking about doesn’t cut it off so narrowly. What’s really
angering about instructions of this sort is that they imply there’s only one way to put this rotisserie together.. .their way. And that
presumption wipes out all the creativity. Actually there are hundreds of ways to put the rotisserie together and when they make you
follow just one way without showing you the overall problem the instructions become hard to follow in such a way as not to make
mistakes. You lose feeling for the work. And not only that, it’s very unlikely that they’ve told you the best way."


"But they’re from the factory," John says.


"I’m from the factory too," I say "and I know how instructions like this are put together. You go out on the assembly line with a tape

recorder and the foreman sends you to talk to the guy he needs least, the biggest goof-off he’s got, and whatever he tells you. ..that’s the
instructions. The next guy might have told you something completely different and probably better, but he’s too busy." They all look
surprised. "I might have known," DeWeese says."
 
My wife likes to overload shelves. Usually it's in the closet, but this is in a cabinet. It appears the cabinet was assembled with the dowels into the sides of the enclosure and into the shelf itself and then all glued together. The other 3 corners are still ok.

Thoughts on how to repair?

IMG_4697.jpg
 
If it's got a lot of weight the strongest thing would be to put a square piece of wood, 3/4"x3/4" underneath both ends screwed into the sides for the shelf to rest on. If you can put a 6" or so piece in the back if the back of the cabinet is structural that'll provide even more support.

If you have a pocket-hole jig I'd use 2-3 pocket screws from the bottom through the shelf into the side and maybe some on the back. But maybe not as that shelf seems like it's made out of paper mache and wouldn't trust just the shelf, hence having a wooden lip for it to sit on.
 
My wife likes to overload shelves. Usually it's in the closet, but this is in a cabinet. It appears the cabinet was assembled with the dowels into the sides of the enclosure and into the shelf itself and then all glued together. The other 3 corners are still ok.

Thoughts on how to repair?

View attachment 250749
Since we are in a drought, and currently in a state wide fire ban, I can not at this time recommend lighting it on fire. So the only logical repair to get a new bike to fix it.

The shelf appears to be particle board and a glue dowel. I would recommend getting some of these, redrilling the hole closer to the edge of the shelf and re supporting the shelf. Don't drill all the way through as that will create a second problem. YMMV and may involve some cursing.


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Since we are in a drought, and currently in a state wide fire ban, I can not at this time recommend lighting it on fire. So the only logical repair to get a new bike to fix it.

The shelf appears to be particle board and a glue dowel. I would recommend getting some of these, redrilling the hole closer to the edge of the shelf and re supporting the shelf. Don't drill all the way through as that will create a second problem. YMMV and may involve some cursing.


View attachment 250751
That was my original thought, but it would also require a new stronger shelf. Using @Santapez idea I can hopefully just reinforce the one that is there.
 
I thought of the pins, but that particle board clearly looks to not be the best. And you'd need to move the shelf enough to drill the holes for the pins, I'm assuming the other end of the shelf is held in with a dowel and may not like moving around while drilling those holes.

I should post in this thread more often. Oddly enough I've been building shelf units recently and have been using a ton of those pins and drilling the holes with a hole jig.
 
I thought of the pins, but that particle board clearly looks to not be the best. And you'd need to move the shelf enough to drill the holes for the pins, I'm assuming the other end of the shelf is held in with a dowel and may not like moving around while drilling those holes.

I should post in this thread more often. Oddly enough I've been building shelf units recently and have been using a ton of those pins and drilling the holes with a hole jig.
I've used those pins for many projects. Purchased this 11 years ago according to Amazon. Probably easier to buy another one than find it in my basement.
 
I've used those pins for many projects. Purchased this 11 years ago according to Amazon. Probably easier to buy another one than find it in my basement.

Just saw my jig the other day. Probably still faster to buy new! Then 10 minutes after using the new one, I'll trip over the old......
 
Washing machine repair win!

Our OG Sears Kenmore Washer and Dryer are legit 28 years old. We got them when we bought our first house in 1996 and they have moved with us each time we moved (twice more). We purposely bought the most basic models back then because we figured easy to repair/less shit to break. Before Youtube was really a thing we had maintenance agreement service on them and even the guy that came out a few times said " never get rid of these, I rarely have to repair them and when they break, easy to fix".

So the other day, wife showed me the agitator wasn't moving the clothes around that well even on the heavy cycle. Since I have serviced this machine myself before, I already had my suspicions on what was wrong. Took the agitator apart and confirmed its these little parts called "agitator dogs" that open/close kinda like a freehub pawl idea inside the agitator.

$4.35 for 2 sets from Amazon (keep one set for a spare) and 10 minutes later we are back in business. These also look much better made like a nylon kind of material so if the old plastic ones lasted this long, these should be good for 28 more years?

Ironically, my Photo memories came up the other day and reminded me that 10 years ago this week I had replaced the transmission coupler (connects the motor to the tub) when the spin cycle stopped working. That was a little more complicated since of course there was a full load of towels in it that day, and I had to take the whole machine apart to lay it down and service it. But thanks to YouTube back then I fixed it in like an hour and only spent $25 on parts. IMG_1549.jpegIMG_1550.jpegIMG_1551.jpeg
 
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