What have you done to your bike today?

Karate Monkey said:
Speed sensor broke--thread insert pulled apart from the housing, probably because of the Buttermilk Valley downhill overlooking the river (so I know where to go to test my work)--so I took the opportunity to change the mounting bracket for a different style; problem: it was designed for spokes laced in the opposite direction of how the ones on this wheel are laced. Solution: crafty me cuts off piece of rubber mount where spoke needs to sit, and glues it on other side. New problem: other half of the clamshell is hard plastic, and not as easy to simply modify without pins/reinforcement. Solution: I had an offcut of walnut that was about the right thickness to copy the piece, so I got to work.

Final product took ~60 minutes of working time from modification-to-install, and I got to use my safe-edge file to do the major profiling, since I didn't want to cut into the 'core' of the piece, and the walnut was hard enough to work well with the file. After finishing/checking the fit, I paste waxed the hell out of it to give it a chance at surviving, then installed it.

View attachment 160164View attachment 160165View attachment 160166

I even managed to have the presence of mind to cut it so the grain wasn't unsupported over the spokes. Go me.

I'm getting a lot of mileage out of this piece of walnut, though it never got used for the original purpose (to be a bridge support on a zither).
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Stupid question, couldn’t just mount the sensor on the opposite side of the wheel ?
 
serviceguy said:
Stupid question, couldn’t just mount the sensor on the opposite side of the wheel ?
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Yeah, but it doesn't fit next to the rotor, and I don't trust it on the other side where it would get whacked with brush...especially since the mounting point seems to be the weak area.
 
Karate Monkey said:
Yeah, but it doesn't fit next to the rotor, and I don't trust it on the other side where it would get whacked with brush...especially since the mounting point seems to be the weak area.
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That’s why I like the Garmin sensor as it sits on the hub, I added some double adhesive tape on the bottom to make sure it doesn’t fly away if the rubber band brakes.
 
serviceguy said:
That’s why I like the Garmin sensor as it sits on the hub, I added some double adhesive tape on the bottom to make sure it doesn’t fly away if the rubber band brakes.
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I personally dislike the rubber band mount. I think is it functional, but aesthetically crude. While I appreciate function when it works well, if there is an alternate option that doesn't look like someone stuck a wart on a [really] expensive hub, I'm going to take it.

I'm outside the use case of the Cannondale version of the sensor, so I can't blame it for not working 100%. Never have a problem with them on any of the bikes they come on.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
assembly lube is not really a lubricant, its there to protect from corrosion while in storage/transport, its VERY tacky to help it stay in place, but that also means it attracts every last freakind spec of dust/hair/dirt/pollen ect and turns itself into a nice abrasive slurry to grind your chain into oblivion, i degrease with a chain cleaner as soon as i put a new chain on and then apply the lube of your choosing. Also according to the internet (i have not tried it to know) mixing chain lubes is bad

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You refute Sheldon Brown?!

Factory Lube​

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. The chain and this lubricant need to be warmed during application.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact -- well, unless...see below.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.


Chain Maintenance

Maintenance of bicycle chains.
www.sheldonbrown.com
 
extremedave said:
You refute Sheldon Brown?!

Factory Lube​

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. The chain and this lubricant need to be warmed during application.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact -- well, unless...see below.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.


Chain Maintenance

Maintenance of bicycle chains.
www.sheldonbrown.com
Click to expand...



yes, yes i do. The factory 'lube' feels and performs EXACTLY like the preservative we put on exposed metal parts at work when we pack for long term storage, it is tacky so that it will stay in place, but this also means that it attracts dirt. this is fine for something packed up and closed off from the environment, but on a bike chain you dont want to hold that dirt in place, you want it to fall away (as much as possible) so that it doesnt become an abrasive slurry. remember the black/gray gunk that is on your chain is lube mixed with dirt and metal particles, which is your chain wearing faster. and costing you more money, a clean chain is a happy chain.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
yes, yes i do. The factory 'lube' feels and performs EXACTLY like the preservative we put on exposed metal parts at work when we pack for long term storage, it is tacky so that it will stay in place, but this also means that it attracts dirt. this is fine for something packed up and closed off from the environment, but on a bike chain you dont want to hold that dirt in place, you want it to fall away (as much as possible) so that it doesnt become an abrasive slurry. remember the black/gray gunk that is on your chain is lube mixed with dirt and metal particles, which is your chain wearing faster. and costing you more money, a clean chain is a happy chain.
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I second @shrpshtr325
 
shrpshtr325 said:
yes, yes i do. The factory 'lube' feels and performs EXACTLY like the preservative we put on exposed metal parts at work when we pack for long term storage, it is tacky so that it will stay in place, but this also means that it attracts dirt. this is fine for something packed up and closed off from the environment, but on a bike chain you dont want to hold that dirt in place, you want it to fall away (as much as possible) so that it doesnt become an abrasive slurry. remember the black/gray gunk that is on your chain is lube mixed with dirt and metal particles, which is your chain wearing faster. and costing you more money, a clean chain is a happy chain.
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746B7823-1805-4083-B587-EF047CA598D0.jpeg
 
Karate Monkey said:
*womp womp womp*

My made piece held up fine, unfortunately my modified rubber bit didn't; I decided, in my haste, to make a series of cascading bad choices: I prepped the rubber surfaces poorly; I used the wrong adhesive; I didn't test the bond before installing it. It rocketed off the spokes on a rooty descent, and I was lucky to recover the unit.

Take two, coming up.
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Take two:

As it surprises absolutely nobody, looking up proper adhesives for what you are bonding is better than "YOLO, whatever". It turns out that EPDM rubber (which is something like 99% of what they make shims/etc on nice bike things out of) has two adhesives of choice: a really stupendously expensive specialty product, and well-prepped cyanoacrylate...aka: superglue.

I roughed the surfaces using 80grit paper--stuff they include in patch kits--swiped them with acetone to remove any mold release compound that might still be present, then followed with alcohol, as recommended for bonding EPDM. They warned that you had literal seconds to position your piece, and they weren't joking. Within the space of 2-3 seconds, it was firmly attached to the bonding site. I let it cure for 30 minutes, then installed it and allowed it to finish curing under pressure, monitoring it for creep. It didn't move, and checking it after riding, it was still firmly attached to the site.

Pictures look identical to the first, but it didn't shoot off after riding for 45 minutes. 🙂
 
Karate Monkey said:
Take two:

As it surprises absolutely nobody, looking up proper adhesives for what you are bonding is better than "YOLO, whatever". It turns out that EPDM rubber (which is something like 99% of what they make shims/etc on nice bike things out of) has two adhesives of choice: a really stupendously expensive specialty product, and well-prepped cyanoacrylate...aka: superglue.

I roughed the surfaces using 80grit paper--stuff they include in patch kits--swiped them with acetone to remove any mold release compound that might still be present, then followed with alcohol, as recommended for bonding EPDM. They warned that you had literal seconds to position your piece, and they weren't joking. Within the space of 2-3 seconds, it was firmly attached to the bonding site. I let it cure for 30 minutes, then installed it and allowed it to finish curing under pressure, monitoring it for creep. It didn't move, and checking it after riding, it was still firmly attached to the site.

Pictures look identical to the first, but it didn't shoot off after riding for 45 minutes. 🙂
Click to expand...

Sensor: survived Hartshorne with no problems.

Now that I got that out of the way, I've been eyeballing a super slow sealant leak around the valve on the rear wheel of the main whip. It didn't really go anywhere, so I haven't been in a rush to fix it. Well, this morning, I decided to clean out the valve stem, and after putting a new core it, heard a slow leak. Rather than trusting my luck (since it didn't seem like it was improving any with splashing the sealant around), I popped a bead and took a look. The valve had rotated--probably when I was changing a core--and broken all the way through side-to-side. I pulled it off, spent 10 minutes scrubbing at the rim, applied new tape (knocked over the tire that I was trying not to replace the sealant in), then re-mounted the tire/aired up. Success.
 
Had to bring the road bike to the shop today the shifting went to crap towards the end of today's 45+ miler. It was pretty busy but lucky for me the crew knows me and they liked the box of 50 munchkins i brought from Dunkin which may have helped me jump the line..shh

i figured it was gonna be the rear cable issue fraying inside the shifter again but to my surprise the cable was fine. they ended up replacing the cable and housing anyway which seemed to fix it. I asked them to check the chain and they were like - yeah if you need an 11spd chain come back in February... yikes. so i guess what I am riding will have to do.

stocked up on Clif gels, CO2 and tubes in prep for my upcoming bday ride this week - I always take the day off just hope the Tstorms hold off.
 
iman29 said:
Had to bring the road bike to the shop today the shifting went to crap towards the end of today's 45+ miler. It was pretty busy but lucky for me the crew knows me and they liked the box of 50 munchkins i brought from Dunkin which may have helped me jump the line..shh

i figured it was gonna be the rear cable issue fraying inside the shifter again but to my surprise the cable was fine. they ended up replacing the cable and housing anyway which seemed to fix it. I asked them to check the chain and they were like - yeah if you need an 11spd chain come back in February... yikes. so i guess what I am riding will have to do.

stocked up on Clif gels, CO2 and tubes in prep for my upcoming bday ride this week - I always take the day off just hope the Tstorms hold off.
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I have KMC and Sram 11 speed chains in stock.
 
Finally got around to getting my daughters new (to her) bike setup for her.

-Shorter stem and Different bars/grips
-New pedals, BB, and shorter cranks
-drilled frame to accept an internal dropper and her seat.

Trail tested today with a big seal of approval



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Opened up the Marzocchi DJ1 on a new (to me) GT Labomba I bought. Tried to get rid of the top out clunking these are known for with a rubber washer between the topout spring and the piston. Partially successful. Dulled the clunk but didn’t eliminate it.

2023C0FA-DA2F-4854-BDDD-A8F9D24E95A9.jpeg
 
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