Suggestions for a Cross Bike

couterpoint: AFAIK, Sora is still 9-speed so in theory it should be less finicky than 10 or 11 speed stuff to adjust? Some people still claim 9-speed is better for CX. Sora will get it done. All modern systems shift pretty darn well if set up properly. If that's what the budget holds then go for it.

counter-counterpoint: 105 is pretty darn good and will probably last longer. buy it once.
 
I hear what you are saying, and I agree with you for the most part (I have dura ace on my road bike and XT on my MTB), but I am looking at getting an entry level cross/gravel/winter bike, yes I'm aware that it will be heavy etc... but do you think that the shifting etc... will be that bad?.
Hey, don't make a decision on my stupid internet talk. Stop by a shop, test ride it and talk to the mechanics. The guys that fix the stuff every day know way better then my stupid opinions!
 
Cross seems pretty tough on parts, which parts tend to wear the most?

I haven't finished building my bike or attended a practice yet and Sept is almost over
Is it too late to get started? Going to go with an old road crank and just leave it on the small chain ring
Also have some low end gravel tires from Kenda, will they get stuck in the mud?

should I go with caged pedals (clips?) so many questions and feel like running out of time
are there beginner practices near CR
 
Of course I would love to get a bike with 105 or Rival (at the very least), but I did indeed test ride a bike with Sora on Sunday (granted it was just a few laps around the parking lot) and the shifting felt way better then I expected.
 
Cross seems pretty tough on parts, which parts tend to wear the most?

I haven't finished building my bike or attended a practice yet and Sept is almost over
Is it too late to get started? Going to go with an old road crank and just leave it on the small chain ring
Also have some low end gravel tires from Kenda, will they get stuck in the mud?

should I go with caged pedals (clips?) so many questions and feel like running out of time
are there beginner practices near CR
Cross is just getting started!! There are races locally into December, nationals Isn't even until January. Plenty of time, fear not.

Don't worry about tire selection yet. Your concern should be showing up to practice for a shake down then lining up to see what this is all about! If you show up with something that has some kind of knob you have nothing to worry about unless the it rained all week and is still raining at the race. Even then, just do it and play in the mud.

I would like to reply to the wear question:
The answer is everything, in short. If it doesn't rain you could race a whole 20 race season on everything and have a like new bike (iff'n you don't crash). Mud really really takes its tole on parts. Chain, chainring, cassette, jockey pulleys will all be basically consumed by mud. It is of utmost importance to clean your drive-train before that mud dries. Spend some time with the jockey pulleys, remember to re-oil that chain.

Mud also consumes brake pads like crazy. Both Disc and Cantilever. I've worn through my pads in a single weekend of racing several times in the right kind of mud.

Further points of wear will be your cables and housing. Again, Mud gets in there. It takes more time then anything else but I find myself replacing housing on my rear derailleur once, if not twice over 25 races.

I regularly oil both derailleurs at all pivot points with light lube like t-9 or pro-gold for good measure.
 
Of course I would love to get a bike with 105 or Rival (at the very least), but I did indeed test ride a bike with Sora on Sunday (granted it was just a few laps around the parking lot) and the shifting felt way better then I expected.
new sora is much better in design than the original, I remember really not liking the lever feel which had a lot of flex and had a plastic alloy look. Are the levers now built better?
 
Sora won't be bad when you take a bike for a spin in the parking lot. Anything will shift when new/tuned. The question is how well it will shift on race day under more power, in different weather conditions, and how long it will do the aforementioned.
 
get whatever gets you on the bike fastest.
I would agree with this statement 100%. Your first season it's more important to just get out there, experience various race conditions.
Should you end up enjoying the specific breed of suffering that is CX, you'll probably want to upgrade next season anyways.
As @Delish likes to say, "run what ya brung."
 
Sora won't be bad when you take a bike for a spin in the parking lot. Anything will shift when new/tuned. The question is how well it will shift on race day under more power, in different weather conditions, and how long it will do the aforementioned.

This is where the maintenance @The Heckler speaks of comes into play. Any system is going to get mucked up if conditions are crappy unless you make sure it's clean and well maintained. 10- & 11-speed systems are more likely to shift poorly due to sticky cables, bent derailleur hangers, etc... than 9-speed ones. 9-speed chains and cassettes should last longer in theory. It'll be fine. And yes, I have owned a Sora equipped bike.
 
which is best option for pedals
- platform/flat
- cage with toe clips
- egg beaters
- old ass M737 spd
 
Last year (June / July ish) I was in a similar situation. I wanted a cheap entry level road / gravel / cx bike for commuting and I wanted see if I liked being on the road. I purchased a brand new Giant Anyroad 2 and it was 26lbs and came with heavy Giant wheels, a triple octalink crank and Sora / Tiagra components. I rode the hell out of that bike from July until now and primarily kept it heavy for training. I recently replaced the wheels with CX tubular race wheels and did a complete drivetrain swap to 105.

For what I used it for from the time I purchased it to now, the bike was and is bomb proof. I BEAT the living snot out of it and it held together. It was ridden in the rain, snow, CX raced with MUD, Slushy, Icy, Sandy winter tow path rides - you name it, the bike did it. So - people may speak negatively about Sora, I get why.. It feels like shit and it's heavy but it sure is bomb proof if you know how to maintain it.

I switched to 105 for weight and after I installed it, I LOVE the feel of it on this bike.

Figured I share my story and hope it helps in your decision.
 
Last year (June / July ish) I was in a similar situation. I wanted a cheap entry level road / gravel / cx bike for commuting and I wanted see if I liked being on the road. I purchased a brand new Giant Anyroad 2 and it was 26lbs and came with heavy Giant wheels, a triple octalink crank and Sora / Tiagra components. I rode the hell out of that bike from July until now and primarily kept it heavy for training. I recently replaced the wheels with CX tubular race wheels and did a complete drivetrain swap to 105.

For what I used it for from the time I purchased it to now, the bike was and is bomb proof. I BEAT the living snot out of it and it held together. It was ridden in the rain, snow, CX raced with MUD, Slushy, Icy, Sandy winter tow path rides - you name it, the bike did it. So - people may speak negatively about Sora, I get why.. It feels like shit and it's heavy but it sure is bomb proof if you know how to maintain it.

I switched to 105 for weight and after I installed it, I LOVE the feel of it on this bike.

Figured I share my story and hope it helps in your decision.
what's it now weighing in at?
 
23 and change ish... Its still on the hefty side but the difference is in the wheels (recomended by @The Heckler - Velocity Major Toms Disc) and lighter cranks and cassette... Switched from the triple octalink to a 105 1by... I've noticed the bike is very stable in bumpy terrain and I when I need to repoint it, it goes where I want it to and it very predictable especially in off camber stuffs.
 
23 and change ish... Its still on the hefty side but the difference is in the wheels (recomended by @The Heckler - Velocity Major Toms Disc) and lighter cranks and cassette... Switched from the triple octalink to a 105 1by... I've noticed the bike is very stable in bumpy terrain and I when I need to repoint it, it goes where I want it to and it very predictable especially in off camber stuffs.
thanks Mike, that's a reasonable target I can shoot for
I'll still need to build up some delts and biceps to heft it around
 
which is best option for pedals
- platform/flat
- cage with toe clips
- egg beaters
- old ass M737 spd

From what I recall, almost everyone uses SPDs. I'm sure some use egg beaters. I have not seen flats or toe clips.
 
Walt, you coming to Hippo this saturday? line up or watch(bring bear/cow bell, watch @The Heckler, learn from the best.) - its all good. Wanted to say hello...
 
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