Ask an automobile mechanic.

ride it out till you get to the tire shop, have them fix it CORRECTLY, this means a plug/patch (one piece patch with a rubber plug looking thing that gets pulled through the hole) installed from the inside of the tire, last one i did cost me <$20, and outlasted the tire. the plugs will work loose and cause you to be constantly topping off the air.

of course it is also possible that they pull it out and it wasnt deep enough to puncture then your all good to go, but dont pull it yourself, let the tire place do it.
This used to be true but most shops now won't patch anything but the most minor hole if at all. They don't want to to take any risk and also want to sell you a new tire (or multiple tires). 😡
 
Ready to do an oil change on an LS6 5.7, it currently has long over due 2 yo Mobil 1 in it. Should I stick with Mobil or should I use some sort of boutique oil like Amsoil or Quaker State...? Mrs. @shrpshtr325 is probably the expert here, car gets one or two thousand miles per year and hibernates when they start dropping salt. But still driven in sub freezing temp as long as roads are salt free. Also what about oil filters, OEM or something fancier?
 
Ready to do an oil change on an LS6 5.7, it currently has long over due 2 yo Mobil 1 in it. Should I stick with Mobil or should I use some sort of boutique oil like Amsoil or Quaker State...? Mrs. @shrpshtr325 is probably the expert here, car gets one or two thousand miles per year and hibernates when they start dropping salt. But still driven in sub freezing temp as long as roads are salt free. Also what about oil filters, OEM or something fancier?
I'm a fan of Mobil 1 but Bill's wife is the expert. Amsoil might be good oil but they don't certify with anyone (in the past) so it's not worth the risk. In your application oil wear is not an issue water and fuel contamination is.
I think Wix is good or OEM filter.
 
We use Amsoil in our fleet, and I can tell you first hand it does not prevent engine failures. ****Cough Dodge****cough dodge ******
I personally like to stick with the same oil for the life of the engine, so I'll cast an opinion for Mobile 1 with Wix or OE filter.
 
amsoil, royal purple and their like are (to quote the wife unit) fancy overpriced crap.

mobile 1 was involved in a lawsuit for making claims on their bottle that their product did not actually meet, buyer beware.

penzoil ultra or castrol edge for synthetic seem to be the top performers atm. but if your not driving it that much you really are unlikely to do harm as long as you run oil that meets the appropriate API certification for the year of the engine.

oil filters are another story, i like purolator personally (*they make mopar/dodge OEM filters, or did at last check), good value for money, was the best value at one point, just stay away from FRAM and their paper garbage and you should be fine.

We use Amsoil in our fleet, and I can tell you first hand it does not prevent engine failures. ****Cough Dodge****cough dodge ******
I personally like to stick with the same oil for the life of the engine, so I'll cast an opinion for Mobile 1 with Wix or OE filter.
not sure what engines you guys are having trouble with, but if its a lubrication type engine failure its probably bc you were using amsoil
 
not sure what engines you guys are having trouble with, but if its a lubrication type engine failure its probably bc you were using amsoil
It's the V6's in the Ram's and Promasters, well documented with these engines but it wouldn't surprise me if lubrication has a little something to do with it as well. And the transmissions are garbage too. I believe they redesigned everything for the 22/23 models, everything before was pure junk.
 
It's the V6's in the Ram's and Promasters, well documented with these engines but it wouldn't surprise me if lubrication has a little something to do with it as well. And the transmissions are garbage too. I believe they redesigned everything for the 22/23 models, everything before was pure junk.
AHHH the 'mighty' pentastar, no clue about those, my hemi ram has been flawless, both engine and trans so :shrug:
 
Anybody have experience with Ultimate Collision on Rt.1 in Edison? Haven't been thrilled with the other local body shops.
 
That's padded like my sofa. Note "Recommended" (by the dealer), not "Required" (by Ford). What does the owner's manual say?

  1. I'd be shocked if there's a recommended (by Ford) oil conditioner. You don't want it.
  2. WTF is "ECO friendly brake cleaning solution?" I think it means they spray brake cleaner on the calipers from the green can.
  3. "Ethanol fuel service" sounds like a completely made-up thing.
  4. If you're not racing it, I'd be surprised if a rear diff fluid change was required.
  5. Trans fluid change might not be a terrible idea if you're keeping it forever. I might research that one.
  6. Absolutely no way I would let them perform an "Oil Crankcase Cleaning Service". My guess is they either do nothing at all OR pour in some chemical and run the engine a while.
 
Wtf is oil conditioner? Hard pass on that one
Wtf is ethanol service? Also pass
Check your manual for trans fluid it's probably over 100k miles if at all. Def not at 30 unless the manual says so.
Engine coolant is usually 10 years 150k these days pass there too
Wtf is crankcase cleaning? Oil keeps it clean so pass.
Rear diff fluid could be valid if you have a limited slip so check your equipment. If it's not limited slip your only halfway through the fluid life
 
Are these prices itemized in any way? Looks to me like a few hundred dollars worth of labor and materials at an incredible mark up. Crazy. Find the maintenance book for your car and compare.
 
A 2019 vehicle with 30K on the clock should only need an oil change and an air filter, maybe the trans and rear diff if your really crazy about maintenance. Tire rotation for me is seasonal, once in the spring and once in the fall, your mileage my differ. Do you plan on keeping this vehicle for the long run, 200K+ ???
 
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