I thought 14oz was a lot too, but Google says it has a 29oz capacity. I'll grab the Thermapen and see how cold it's blowing.
Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Coils are $30 each, never done this on this engine but from the tutorial looks like a lot of parts need removing before you get to the coils, same goes for the spark plugs. I would just go ahead and replace them all rather than do the job twice. Hence the question, since I need to tear into it to just replace the spark plugs is it common to change the coils as well?
not usually, unless there is a problem with them
mfennell
Well-Known Member
They're never truly 'sealed'. I read a few years back that GM put a lot of effort into the brake lines to reduce moisture contamination. I never would have thought it was a thing TBH.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
There's loss one direction or the other. Can't get away from it.
"The seal that leaks, is sealed."
Ok. Heat wave coming. Time to fix the AC again/still.
2017 Suburban with front and rear AC with separate controls. Front AC is noticeably warmer than what blows out the rear. Rear is ice cold. Google not helping as most talk of problems of passenger vs. driver temps, not front vs. rear. The answer for the front, left/right seems to be the blend door actuator. Not sure about front/rear though.
2017 Suburban with front and rear AC with separate controls. Front AC is noticeably warmer than what blows out the rear. Rear is ice cold. Google not helping as most talk of problems of passenger vs. driver temps, not front vs. rear. The answer for the front, left/right seems to be the blend door actuator. Not sure about front/rear though.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
The Tiguan continues it's antics again. While driving around Sandy Hook with friends and stuck in miles of traffic, hindsight we should have walked over the bridge instead. Somewhere in Rumson hear a plunk sound and just thought the AC compressor was turning off, MrsQ asks to turn up the AC and I see the battery light is on. AC no longer blowing cold air but we're only 3 miles from home, so we forge on. An hour later after only traveling a mile, the dash lights go nuts, with all sensors lit and abs off. Then the power steering is gone, so pull over on Rt36 and pop the hood. I have no serpentine belt and oil visible in area. Called AAA and had to wait 3 hours for them to arrive. If cars weren't so hard to find rn...
that should be a fairly simple fix, figure out which pulley seized up and shredded the belt, replace with a new belt.
is the water pump driven by the timing belt on that car? (did you overheat it?)
is the water pump driven by the timing belt on that car? (did you overheat it?)
Frank
Wookie
You should have a separate blend cold/hot door actuator. Not sure if electric or vacuum, assuming electric so that should be your issue. I know of some issues of blend doors breaking, but that’s rare. Time to crawl under the dash and cycle between cold/ hot in frt to see which act. And go from there.
Fat Trout
Well-Known Member
The "oil visible in area" comment is notable. my father famously changed the oil once when I was a kid in a car loaded ready to go to the shore and left the oil filter gasket stuck to the engine and stacked the new filter up on it. Start car and a whomp noise which was the surpentine belt hitting the hood after the oil sprayed. @shrpshtr325 may be right (seized pully) but if oil or something is leaking it may have caused this too.
is the system one loop or two? if its two you could have an expansion valve sticking/malfunctioning/clogged on the front loop while the one for the rear is still working fine.
Aren't there several of these actuators in this truck? Not sure which one would control front to back air flow.
Not sure.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Mechanic said the AC compressor seized and shredded the belt resulting it being wrapped around the cam seals. New compressor, seals and belt puts it back on the road. Do compressors seized like that often? Would suck if this happened on the highway and losing power steering.
no compressors do not typically fail without warning, they will typically make noise/squeak ect before they just let go.
glad it was nothing major to get it back on the road.
glad it was nothing major to get it back on the road.
The boys car went in for an oil change, and came back leaking oil in the driveway.
2004 Acura MDX, 159k miles.
Thoughts?
and yes, he's gonna bring it into a local shop for estimate, but I'm curious potential issues/costs ahead of thyme.
2004 Acura MDX, 159k miles.
Thoughts?
and yes, he's gonna bring it into a local shop for estimate, but I'm curious potential issues/costs ahead of thyme.
JonFern
Formerly: send jon ferns
Very possible they either a) left the drain plug loose, or b) over-torqued it and stripped it, leaving it loose. I suppose c) oil filter loose, or gaskets doubled up
My wife got an oil change at Jiffy Lube once, and they forgot to screw the cap back on afterward. The oil all came out before she even made it home.
So, so many stories like that. I remember one where a car has a plastic cover that has to be removed to access the drain plug and the employee seemingly just took a sawzall to the cover instead of removing it.
1TrackMind
Well-Known Member
This happened to me with my Passport after the dealer changed the oil… turns out the oil drained onto the control arm and pooled there, then leaked out and into the garage. Rather sloppy for a dealership in my opinion.