What have you done to your bike today?

sundaydoug said:
Is that extra cog there because you want the option of slightly different gearing? Or did you just run out of spacers?
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It's just easier than swapping cogs for different rides. I started doing it when I had my SSCX All-City so I could swap gearing if it was bad conditions. I'll look through my pics but it's exactly the same as this.
 
Karate Monkey said:
Man, a full dingle would blow your mind. But it is excellent for riding to the ride.

Too bad almost everyone has decided that mountain bike cranks should only have one chainring.
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A true Dingle is probably more than I want. I run a taller gear than most so riding road to a ride isn't so bad.
 
Karate Monkey said:
Man, a full dingle would blow your mind. But it is excellent for riding to the ride.

Too bad almost everyone has decided that mountain bike cranks should only have one chainring.
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My mind is easily blown, do tell...do you have to adjust the tension of your chain once you swap your 'full/true dingle' cog/chainrings pair? I would assume the cog/chainring would be sized so that it wouldn't be necessary...why not using a front derailleur and have a 2x1 drivetrain then (or DS)?
 
serviceguy said:
My mind is easily blown, do tell...do you have to adjust the tension of your chain once you swap your 'full/true dingle' cog/chainrings pair? I would assume the cog/chainring would be sized so that it wouldn't be necessary...why not using a front derailleur and have a 2x1 drivetrain then (or DS)?
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You pick sprockets that are all two teeth apart (though I guess it could be more, too, but...), ie 18/20 rear, and 34/32.

If you have nutted axles, releasing the right side leaves enough slack to derail the chain onto the smaller rear/front (depending where you currently are), which in turn leaves enough slack to get it onto the larger sprocket. Fasten down axle, and go. TA/QR are even easier. Drop the wheel, switch, in put back in.

Because there net change in tooth count is 0, required tension doesn't change. In the normal case of 2 tooth differences, it leaves you with a "normal" gear, and one that is 4 teeth harder.
 
I thought the other sprocket was typically on the opposite side of the hub, perhaps to maintain same spacing for the chain line - so the wheel would get flipped, which I see now only works with rim brakes and non-directional tire treads.
Never really thought about it, but on a bike with disc brakes and/or directional tread, there is obviously no option to flip the wheel to use a different cog.

Or maybe the flipping only works with a fixed hub, and not a freewheel.
 
jackx said:
I thought the other sprocket was typically on the opposite side of the hub, perhaps to maintain same spacing for the chain line - so the wheel would get flipped, which I see now only works with rim brakes and non-directional tire treads.
Never really thought about it, but on a bike with disc brakes and/or directional tread, there is obviously no option to flip the wheel to use a different cog.

Or maybe the flipping only works with a fixed hub, and not a freewheel.
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my beatnik flips from SS to fixie. rim brake, hybrid non-directional tire. i haven't flipped it!
more of a hipster/city thing?
 
jackx said:
I thought the other sprocket was typically on the opposite side of the hub, perhaps to maintain same spacing for the chain line - so the wheel would get flipped, which I see now only works with rim brakes and non-directional tire treads.
Never really thought about it, but on a bike with disc brakes and/or directional tread, there is obviously no option to flip the wheel to use a different cog.

Or maybe the flipping only works with a fixed hub, and not a freewheel.
Click to expand...

Perfect chainline is more of a strong suggestion than a requirement. Being off by 1.5mm (ie, split the difference between the two sprockets) isn't that bad, really.
 
Surly cogs have a 3mm offset. I run them opposite each other with the proper chain line in the center of the 2. I run 9-speed chains on all my SS bikes so there's a little wiggle room. I've never had an issue doing it.
 
Ok, let’s take it up a notch...dingle an oval chainring...seriously, the fat bike is all ready, I need to go frolicking in the snow now... @Patrick why did you shut down the winter shoes re-make thread ? I envisioned sitting on my couch posting avidly while envisioning to be riding in the cold and getting frost bites!

serious contribution now. After clearing the driveway, paths and bushes around the house from the white stuff dumped by snow-mated don I finally tuned the gears on the Mukluk and put back the fat tires. Also shortened the steerer and swapped the rustler bars for some salt flat ones.
 
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We need a new Winter Shoe thread. So much new technology and advancement has gone into this segment since the last one [/sarcasm]
 
Sold it. Well one of them. I am starting a save up for the next one or five bikes. Being who knows when bikes will be in stocking have time to squirrel away.
 
I did something different today, I rode my bike in the snow...wow. Fresh snow...wow. Developed a whole new appreciation for what @jimvreeland thing he does...btw, thanks for the intervention!

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picture of the new setup (old setup) after being cleaned from the snow.

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