I fashion my crown from Quetzlcoatl’s quills
- Thread starter gtluke
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gtluke
The Moped
I wish I knew Mr. Sokolowski. He did such a great job naturally heating and cooling this house in 1960. I really appreciate the thoughtfulness.
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gtluke
The Moped
gtluke
The Moped
And this weekend's progress. Need to thinset/screw down the floor.
Need to decide if I want to keep those 2 neew 2x4's on the left side shower wall. It would make that wall exactly 3ft
The way it is now, there isn't enough sticking out past the tub to hold a complete tile next to the tub by the floor. Though, I don't know what tile I"m going to use. Putting 1 2x4 I think would hold a tile. 2 of them might be a bit big but then I wouldn't have to cut the board 😉
The other thing I spent hours on is furring out the joists. There was a small gap between the walls at tub, the .4" hardibacker didn't stick far enough over the tub to allow the tile to come down to the flat part of the tub. My tub doesn't have a very sharp angle when making the flange. Maybe a newer tub would have been okay but I needed a little more room. Also, the stupid hardibacker is .4" and the drywall is .5 so I have to make up that too.
SO
I took 5' length of roof tar paper, folded it 3 times, and stapled it to the joist. This makes the hardi equal to the drywall. Then I took some 1/8" hardboard? not sure what it is. One sheet WAS the back of my old vanity. There were more sheets in the rafters of my garage I pulled down. Set the fence to 1.5" and ripped a few dozen strips.
Tomorrow I'll nail the strips to the joists over the tar paper. Then another piece above that without the tar paper. This way the drywall is flush with the hardi all the way around the tub, and the tile will set down onto the flat part of the tub. The only dicking around I need to do when I'm down with that is on the doorway wall, I'll have to feather the wall into the existing drywall, as that drywall won't have the 1/8" furring strips behind it. I'd bump out that whole wall, since there isn't much drywall left on it but then I have to deal with filling an 1/8" gap at the door jamb.
Obviously I have to fill the joists with insulation too, they go into the attic and crawl space so it's cold back there.
Ordered up some fiberglass tape, have SOME redguard but not much. I'll have to waterproof the whole setup.
Delay problems because I haven't figured out what tile i"m going to use. My tile size is going to dictate where I build the niche, so I can't complete the back wall which has to go in first, until I decide the tile and the height of where the niche is. But I have plenty more work to do.
I'm leaning towards extra large subway tiles. Cool thing about my setup is that since the shower is on the split level split, it's actual framing back there so I can make a 6" deep niche and it's still not on an outside wall. So I might do that.
Oh yeah, I spent some decent time leveling the joists too. Some of them were bowed out a bit and I fixed that with a super sharp chisel. Some of the joists just stuck out entirely, so I pulled the nails out of the top, pushed it back 1/8" and screwed it back in.
OH
I also ran pex to the shower and to the toilet, left the copper in the floor going to the vanity. Now all the fixtures in the bathroom are on their own pex lines back to the manifold. Capped the cuts but I can't test it yet because I don't have any valves on the vanity end yet, forgot to get shut off valves today.
Need to decide if I want to keep those 2 neew 2x4's on the left side shower wall. It would make that wall exactly 3ft
The way it is now, there isn't enough sticking out past the tub to hold a complete tile next to the tub by the floor. Though, I don't know what tile I"m going to use. Putting 1 2x4 I think would hold a tile. 2 of them might be a bit big but then I wouldn't have to cut the board 😉
The other thing I spent hours on is furring out the joists. There was a small gap between the walls at tub, the .4" hardibacker didn't stick far enough over the tub to allow the tile to come down to the flat part of the tub. My tub doesn't have a very sharp angle when making the flange. Maybe a newer tub would have been okay but I needed a little more room. Also, the stupid hardibacker is .4" and the drywall is .5 so I have to make up that too.
SO
I took 5' length of roof tar paper, folded it 3 times, and stapled it to the joist. This makes the hardi equal to the drywall. Then I took some 1/8" hardboard? not sure what it is. One sheet WAS the back of my old vanity. There were more sheets in the rafters of my garage I pulled down. Set the fence to 1.5" and ripped a few dozen strips.
Tomorrow I'll nail the strips to the joists over the tar paper. Then another piece above that without the tar paper. This way the drywall is flush with the hardi all the way around the tub, and the tile will set down onto the flat part of the tub. The only dicking around I need to do when I'm down with that is on the doorway wall, I'll have to feather the wall into the existing drywall, as that drywall won't have the 1/8" furring strips behind it. I'd bump out that whole wall, since there isn't much drywall left on it but then I have to deal with filling an 1/8" gap at the door jamb.
Obviously I have to fill the joists with insulation too, they go into the attic and crawl space so it's cold back there.
Ordered up some fiberglass tape, have SOME redguard but not much. I'll have to waterproof the whole setup.
Delay problems because I haven't figured out what tile i"m going to use. My tile size is going to dictate where I build the niche, so I can't complete the back wall which has to go in first, until I decide the tile and the height of where the niche is. But I have plenty more work to do.
I'm leaning towards extra large subway tiles. Cool thing about my setup is that since the shower is on the split level split, it's actual framing back there so I can make a 6" deep niche and it's still not on an outside wall. So I might do that.
Oh yeah, I spent some decent time leveling the joists too. Some of them were bowed out a bit and I fixed that with a super sharp chisel. Some of the joists just stuck out entirely, so I pulled the nails out of the top, pushed it back 1/8" and screwed it back in.
OH
I also ran pex to the shower and to the toilet, left the copper in the floor going to the vanity. Now all the fixtures in the bathroom are on their own pex lines back to the manifold. Capped the cuts but I can't test it yet because I don't have any valves on the vanity end yet, forgot to get shut off valves today.
gtluke
The Moped
I caved this year. I put a string of Christmas lights in the coop. Old mini lights so they have a slight amount of heat. So hopefully it stayed above like 15 in there. Below that they could get frostbite.
This morning they were opening Christmas presents.
ChrisG
Unapologetic Lifer for Rock and Roll
Right?
I imagine the chickens huddled around a couple of tiny light bulbs, cursing the cold, cursing Luke...
They really give off that much heat?
My kid had his bday party at the local climbing gym, saw a bunch of dudes there that look like you. Fun stuff but shit seems expensive. I did this one sick line right after a 11 year old girl made it, it was awesome.
My kid had his bday party at the local climbing gym, saw a bunch of dudes there that look like you. Fun stuff but shit seems expensive. I did this one sick line right after a 11 year old girl made it, it was awesome.
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why no modern balancing valve in the shower?
looks like that tub doesn't have a flange - don't think i've seen that.
don't get crazy about the full tile - the cut side will go towards the tub
and be sealed with silicone. never see it. just plan so there isn't a sliver of tile
where it meets the back wall.
looks like that tub doesn't have a flange - don't think i've seen that.
don't get crazy about the full tile - the cut side will go towards the tub
and be sealed with silicone. never see it. just plan so there isn't a sliver of tile
where it meets the back wall.
gtluke
The Moped
I dunno, do I want that? what's there works and I asked my wife if she wanted a single or what's there and she said she didn't care.
Is balancing valve modern? My downstairs bathroom has one, 1960
I'd consider it though.
But really in bathrooms for whatever reason I love the classic looks. I'm likely going to do some sort of subway tile in white because I'm boring and I just like classic bathrooms. So the 3 valves won't look out of place.
Hmm
Tub has a flange, it's just a pretty wide radius. I'll take a picture when I get back in there.
gtluke
The Moped
I hate you.
They make fucking shower valves where I don't have to set the temperature EVERY TIME I TAKE A SHOWER?
oh man, I think I need this now.
I always said this needed to exist. Set the temperature with one, set the flow with another.
God dammit.
Magic
Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
This sounds like a good idea until someone flushes the toilet while you're in the shower and you can't compensate.
gtluke
The Moped
that part is built in too! it's a pressure/temperature balancing valve. it compensates for the cold pipes and a toilet flush
man, $500 down the drain. I NEED THIS.
Actually one thing I'm also contemplating is a hydronic towel warmer. $500 and an afternoon.
gtluke
The Moped
I need Mandi input but she's never on gchat or is ignoring me. I CAN'T DO THIS ALONE.
I'll just join pintrist.
Got something called the towel spa. Put towel in and press button. Towel Spa 75000 Jumbo Towel Warmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HOOWB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xxIWwbQ67ZTNK
Although tie a rack into the radiant floor sounds good. But wouldn't work all the time.
Don't forget the combo sunburst/hand held shower head. Might have one for you.
Although tie a rack into the radiant floor sounds good. But wouldn't work all the time.
Don't forget the combo sunburst/hand held shower head. Might have one for you.