serviceguy
Well-Known Member
The correct answer is buying bigger compressor and new tools to go with it, keep the old ones as spares.
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
No room. Or not a priority to make room at the moment.
Plus I have two reliable vehicles now. Really it's the impact hammer that can't really be replaced with electric and living in a place without salt...
iman29
Well-Known Member
Stand up what?
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Comedian, but it’s not that funny. Hence the free part…
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
I think that if it’s leaking it’s not going to explode as it wouldn’t build any pressure. More likely it has exploded already.Tank leaking? Like could 'splode real guud?
Tank leaking? Like could 'splode real guud?
yeah, replace the tank would be prudent.
I have this one too. Drain your tanks regularly people!
GSTim
Formerly M3Tim
Liked for the old school Craftsman screwdrivers. Mini with the pocket clip is classic.👍
iman29
Well-Known Member
Actually I wasn’t but now I get it
Fat Trout
Well-Known Member
Yeah this is basically what I did lol. replaced everything and bought some extra shit lol. we seem to be holding now.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Might be fun, but it's a super low priority, ngl
let me know where to send them
Went to open the sprinkling system for the veggies, and almost immediately had a lake at the control box.
Guessing that the water was not completely blown out of one of the valves, it would cost $$ but not too much time.
Wrong. Had the sprinkler guys add a zone, so they needed a bigger box. When they cut the hole for the inlet, the box touched the top of the PVC,
right at a connection. Had some landscapers in this year to do some work, and they must have run over the box with some equipment.
The PVC was snapped right at the joint.
I cut off the PVC to PB stub.
Ok, not the end of the world.
The connection on the left is a 1" PVC Tee. There is no room to work/cut back anything in that direction.
I ordered a PVC saver to bore-out the old 1" pipe, and save the tee. It arrives, and I go to look for my 90deg
drill. Can't find it. Harbor freight has an attachment for $20.
All good, the pipe is ready for a new stub. Then I realize there isn't enough room to work with the threaded end that close,
so I dig it back another foot - which means I didn't need the HF attachment.
Now - do I use a fernco? those rubber things are rated for underground.
do I use a full slip PVC fitting? they need perfect alignment.
Nah, classic underground repair using elbows. just need to get the length right, which is easy with cutting back the PB.
Back in business.
Guessing that the water was not completely blown out of one of the valves, it would cost $$ but not too much time.
Wrong. Had the sprinkler guys add a zone, so they needed a bigger box. When they cut the hole for the inlet, the box touched the top of the PVC,
right at a connection. Had some landscapers in this year to do some work, and they must have run over the box with some equipment.
The PVC was snapped right at the joint.
I cut off the PVC to PB stub.
Ok, not the end of the world.
The connection on the left is a 1" PVC Tee. There is no room to work/cut back anything in that direction.
I ordered a PVC saver to bore-out the old 1" pipe, and save the tee. It arrives, and I go to look for my 90deg
drill. Can't find it. Harbor freight has an attachment for $20.
All good, the pipe is ready for a new stub. Then I realize there isn't enough room to work with the threaded end that close,
so I dig it back another foot - which means I didn't need the HF attachment.
Now - do I use a fernco? those rubber things are rated for underground.
do I use a full slip PVC fitting? they need perfect alignment.
Nah, classic underground repair using elbows. just need to get the length right, which is easy with cutting back the PB.
Back in business.
iman29
Well-Known Member
The annual “peel and paint” activity. I call
It a win when I don’t have any boards to replace. And since we didn’t have that bad of a winter the previous 20 layers didn’t peel
Up as much. My $65 solution to a $15K problem as I don’t see a time in this lifetime where i will be able to afford replacing this deck.
It did suck that the only time I had to do this was Tuesday afternoon when it was about 99F in the direct sun until I was done.
It a win when I don’t have any boards to replace. And since we didn’t have that bad of a winter the previous 20 layers didn’t peel
Up as much. My $65 solution to a $15K problem as I don’t see a time in this lifetime where i will be able to afford replacing this deck.
It did suck that the only time I had to do this was Tuesday afternoon when it was about 99F in the direct sun until I was done.
Ironjunk
Well-Known Member
Looking to make my boiler easier to flush. I was looking into adding flush valves but looks like in theory i can use the no hub couplings off the mixing valve adapted to garden hoses.
Looks like the valve uses 3/4 npt on either end. So adapt 3/4npt to hose threads and then run a solution through after isolating? Hope nothing cracks leaks or breaks.
Looks like the valve uses 3/4 npt on either end. So adapt 3/4npt to hose threads and then run a solution through after isolating? Hope nothing cracks leaks or breaks.
Attachments
Can you isolate the boiler from the rest of the system?
Add in a couple of threaded tees and boiler cocks. And a couple shut off valves.
I don't think it needs to be flushed if it is only heat. DHW does. Can't mix them in NJ. (The water, the system can do both)
Ironjunk
Well-Known Member
Oh my heat is closed and i would rather never do that again especially because of a blown pipe and when it's 8 degrees out. I had to do this the first winter of owning a house, i ran the cold water in too hard and triggered the blowoff valve, that scared me, let your boiler cool before messing with it.
I wasn't clear it's the coil i need to acid flush. I can brute force bad ways to do things but i see adding valves and tees can make it work.
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