the only items i see wearing faster would be chain/brake pads/tires (maybe cassette/chainring if you dont keep up with the chain), on the same wear rate curve as normal since as power goes up wear goes up . . . .
E-bikes are a thing
- Thread starter jdog
- Start date
rick81721
Lothar
Looks like alot of brake rotor replacements. I rarely have to replace them.
i mean that makes some sense doesnt it? more weight = brakes work harder, means they wear faster. WHile pads are the primary source of wear rotors arent exempt. I dont think iv ever replaced rotors for wearing thin, only if iv bent them. . .
rick81721
Lothar
Yep same here.
But does the weight of the bike really make much difference tho? e.g. does a 200 lb rider on a 25 lb bike wear out rotors much faster than a 150 lb rider on the same bike?
I think it's more of a momentum question. The eBike is going to be going faster and need more stopping power. The additional weight of the eBike is non-zero but probably not that much of a difference. The fact that I can rocket up to 18mph in 4 pedal strokes is the real brake pad killer.
I'm at 2k miles on my 1500w bike and almost due for a chain.
I use the park chain machine and the magnet helps pull greasy metal out of the chain which helps a lot.
I said before I was riding stephens on my bike and pretty much cooked my resin pads in a single ride. I would use sintered and 180 disks front and rear
I use the park chain machine and the magnet helps pull greasy metal out of the chain which helps a lot.
I said before I was riding stephens on my bike and pretty much cooked my resin pads in a single ride. I would use sintered and 180 disks front and rear
tonyride
Don't piss off the red guy
Actually going faster on an ebike is a bit of a misnomer. Yes, you obviously go faster climbing and powering through the technical stuff but that's not where you do most of your braking. Where you do most of your braking is going downhill and negotiating around turns, berms, and banks and the speed you hit those won't be increased by much, if any, when you're on an ebike because having a motor won't improve your technical skills so you'll only going as fast as you're comfortable going, ebike or Amish. I wrote a whole thing about it after a couple of rides on my ebike.
The Kmc 8 sp chain 8.1 or something. This is just road and "gravel" Can't believe people spend $60 on a chain for 12sp on ebike. I get a whole drive train rebuild for $40. All these fancy parts and a motor is just scooting you up anyway. It's like buying parts for your dirt bike to save grams.
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After about 1000 rides, buy a new battery for a grand…… batteries do not last forever.
I did post that a couple post after, so yes but your buying a new ebike way before that time if your me 😁
I would be interested in how quickly the batteries degrade. Rechargeable batteries lose the ability fully cycle after a certain number of recharging s . I would like to know how many charges it takes to lose 25% of battery charge.
tonyride
Don't piss off the red guy
By the time you get enough historical data to answer your question newer battery technology will render that data outdated and no longer valid. As we all know technology doesn't stand still.
iLuveketchup
Well-Known Member
I need to figure out the set up on my Rise. It feels like the bike flops over (don't know how to describe it really) when leaning over on a turn. Thinking out loud. It might be the stem is too short at 35mm? Maybe due to the rear dissector tire (DHF front), which does not have enough grip when leaned over (for me)? Or the change to 160mm air spring from 150mm is the culprit? I'll play around with the settings / setup.
I've come to realize how poorly the Rise handled when I went back to my analog trail bike yesterday (after a month of the Rise & DH bike only). It has the same spec 160mm F / 140mm R, but it is a tad longer wheelbase and slacker head angle at 64.5* vs the 65* on the Rise. The difference in handling, grip, and the limit is huge. I'd like to get the Rise to feel somewhat in the same ball park.
Going to try:
50mm stem
Swap wheel/tires from the analog bike to the Rise
I've come to realize how poorly the Rise handled when I went back to my analog trail bike yesterday (after a month of the Rise & DH bike only). It has the same spec 160mm F / 140mm R, but it is a tad longer wheelbase and slacker head angle at 64.5* vs the 65* on the Rise. The difference in handling, grip, and the limit is huge. I'd like to get the Rise to feel somewhat in the same ball park.
Going to try:
50mm stem
Swap wheel/tires from the analog bike to the Rise
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All I can say is play around which is what your doing. 160mm up front puts you pretty much at that 64.5° HA, it's 65° at 140 front and rear.
Also without an actual tool to measure HA I wouldn't trust the bike company's spec to actual spec.
Throw that disector to a SS, it's not worthy for even a trail bike. Go get DHR with DH casing and call it a day.
Not sure which fork you got but I noticed rebound was very important in how my bike behaved in the corners.
I will say my biggest knock on the Rise is it feels much less sturdy side to side compared to the ripmo, ripmo was extremely stiff which maybe a testament to the DW link suspension.
Meanwhile, out in PA…
www.wnep.com
State plans to slow e-bikes on state park trails
With bike sales booming, many are now hopping on the trend of electric bicycles, but state officials are pumping the brakes on e-bikes on popular trails.
www.wnep.com
The headline makes it sound like they want it to be illegal, but it's actually the opposite. They probably realize there's nothing they can do to stop it anyway, but this sounds reasonable:
DCNR will allow e-bikes on trails already open to bicycles as long as users follow some guidelines:
DCNR will allow e-bikes on trails already open to bicycles as long as users follow some guidelines:
- E-bikes can't go faster than 20 miles per hour.
- The motor can't be more than 750 watts and must have working pedals.
- If the trail says no bikes, that means no e-bikes either.
So basically Class 1 pedal assist is good to go.
rick81721
Lothar
Yep. 1. Any bike can go faster than 20 mph. 2. Who's going to stop to check the watt rating of the motor - no one. 3. Duh